50% national local-processing target for 2030, a policy ambition and not installed capacity R07
Batch ticket, illustrative32 L per kg · 2.56 kWh per kg at 8:1
Schematic process stage set-piece. Meter channels represent the PMS sustainability contract, not live factory telemetry.
Value chain · Stage 04 · Wet processing
Scouring, reactive dyeing, washing and stenter heat-setting decide whether cloth cuts cleanly or shrinks after sewing, and they draw the heaviest water and heat loads in the chain.
Bench · the boundary decides the numerator
Water and heat per kilogram change with the boundary you meter. Choose one, set the illustrative liquor ratio, and read what the ticket counts.
5:1 low-liquor jet15:1 winch
Audit supplier shade lots and inbound shrinkage before cutting. In the base cut-make-trim venture model, spinning, knitting and wet processing remain with upstream partners while the factory purchases or contracts finished fabric rolls. The internal boundary starts at inbound roll quarantine: every supplier dyelot is tested for shade continuity, width stability and relaxation shrinkage before release to the cutting table.
Denominator: Accepted finished fabric kilogram or square metre released from inbound quarantine.
In the Cameroon textile programme, wet processing sits at the structural hinge between upstream agricultural and spinning capacity and the in-house garment factory. Feasibility analysis sets the core venture boundary around cut, make, trim, finishing and own-brand distribution at an illustrative nameplate of 3.0 million garments a year, while partnering for spinning, knitting and wet processing until volume and utility reliability justify backward integration.
Bind water withdrawal, salt, alkali and dyestuff to the specific batch ticket. Cotton reactive dyeing requires controlled liquor ratios, electrolyte dosing, alkali fixation and multi-stage rinsing to remove unfixed hydrolysed dye. A credible process account meters total water withdrawal at the vessel valve and links chemical weight directly to the batch number rather than averaging monthly utility invoices across all styles.
Denominator: Net mass of shade-accepted fabric exiting the post-dye extraction nip.
Control overfeed, pin-chain width and chamber dwell to prevent garment twist. After wet extraction, knitted and woven cotton fabrics pass through a multi-chamber stenter frame where pinned or clipped chains set final width, areal density (grams per square metre) and residual shrinkage. Thermal energy dominates this station, so fuel or steam consumption must be logged alongside dwell speed and exit moisture.
Denominator: Accepted finished fabric rolls meeting target width, areal weight and spirality tolerances.
Keep stripping and re-dyeing loads inside the numerator without inflating output. When a batch misses its shade standard, stripping or topping it in a second bath consumes additional water, steam and auxiliaries without creating a second batch of cloth. The PMS accounting rule adds the full rework load to the batch numerator while counting the accepted fabric mass only once at final release.
Denominator: Final accepted fabric mass after shade correction; scrapped yardage is excluded from the denominator.
Method demonstration only. Selecting a boundary alters the engineering allocation rule and schematic flow; it does not report operational measurements from a Cameroon plant. Illustrative engineering parameter (5:1 low-liquor jet to 15:1 conventional winch). Not a measured site baseline.
Hover or focus a station on the train to read its set-point and whether the boundary meters it.
Inbound acceptance = (rolls passing shade and shrinkage gate) / (total rolls received in dyelot)Bath water intensity = (metered bath withdrawal + rinse water in litres) / (accepted dyed batch mass in kg)Stenter thermal intensity = (chamber thermal energy in kWh) / (accepted heat-set fabric in kg)Reconciled batch intensity = (initial bath load + re-dye loop load) / (single accepted batch output)
Water per accepted kg32 L
Heat per accepted kg0.56 kWh
Illustrative 1,000 kg lot32,000 L · 560 kWh
Not metered on site · the supplier declares, the factory audits
Gate rule Hold any supplier roll that lacks a dyelot certificate or a shrinkage test strip.Gate rule Separate fresh withdrawal from recycled condensate and treated discharge.Gate rule Quarantine rolls when a chamber temperature drop leaves over-baked dwell marks.Gate rule Open a re-dye valve only with a logged shade-exception code and sign-off.
Illustrative model, not a measured baseline: 3 rinse volumes, 0.07 kWh per litre of bath, stenter 2.00 kWh per kg.
Open the water and energy per garment explorerField · one thread per percent of cotton fibre
Seed-cotton output is near 340,000 tonnes (R01). Choose a source to see what it does to the field; each one changes the threads, not a side card.
Unit chart of R06: one thread per percent of Cameroon's cotton fibre, in ten bundles of ten (one thread per two percent on a phone). Threads past 5 percent are drawn dashed: steps between the sourced ends are illustrative.
95%
50%
12,000t/yr
10.83%
None
of cotton fibre leaves Cameroon raw; about 5 percent is processed locally (R06).
GFT boundary Partner for spinning, knitting and wet processing in Phase 1.
Verification Supplier dyelot SLA and inbound roll inspection log.
local processing is the national ambition for 2030, not installed capacity (R07).
GFT boundary A target is not capacity: no figure here is installed equipment.
Verification Supplier dyelot SLA and inbound roll inspection log.
announced integrated processing across Dibamba and Garoua (US$300 million, 180 billion XAF) (R09, R10).
GFT boundary Specify inbound fabric to fit emerging domestic poles.
Verification Approved fabric specification sheet and shrinkage test protocol.
reported CICAM 2 utilisation in July 2023, against 48.9 percent at CICAM 1 and 33.7 percent at Garoua (R12).
GFT boundary Avoid stranding wet-processing capital before demand is proven.
Verification Monthly S&OP make-or-partner capacity review.
no verified public unit-water or unit-energy baseline exists for Cameroon garment dyehouses (programme basis).
GFT boundary Separate withdrawal, consumption and discharge per accepted unit.
Verification PMS People and Sustainability sheet and meter calibration register.
Showing 6 of 6 claims
Hover or tap a source dot to light every claim it supports.R01 · Business in Cameroon · grade C · no refresh confirmed · supports 1 of 6 claimsR06 · Cameroon Trade Hub · grade C · no refresh confirmed · supports 1 of 6 claimsR07 · Ecofin Agency · grade C · no refresh confirmed · supports 1 of 6 claimsR09 · Ecofin Agency · grade C · refreshed in 2026 · supports 1 of 6 claimsR10 · Ecofin Agency · grade C · refreshed in 2026 · supports 1 of 6 claimsR12 · Business in Cameroon · grade C · no refresh confirmed · supports 1 of 6 claims
| Figure | Claim | Sources | GFT boundary | Verification |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 340,000 tFibre supply | seed-cotton output in 2024, approximately (national context) | Context only: not a GFT capacity, load or baseline figure. | None: national context. | |
| Fibre flow | of cotton fibre leaves Cameroon raw; about 5 percent is processed locally | Partner for spinning, knitting and wet processing in Phase 1. | Supplier dyelot SLA and inbound roll inspection log. | |
| Policy | local processing by 2030 is a national ambition, not installed capacity | A target is not capacity: no figure here is installed equipment. | Supplier dyelot SLA and inbound roll inspection log. | |
| Industrial poles | announced Camtext SA processing across Dibamba and Garoua (US$300 million) | Specify inbound fabric to fit emerging domestic poles. | Approved fabric specification sheet and shrinkage test protocol. | |
| Utilisation | reported CICAM 2 utilisation in July 2023 (48.9 percent CICAM 1, 33.7 percent Garoua) | Avoid stranding wet-processing capital before demand is proven. | Monthly S&OP make-or-partner capacity review. | |
| Accounting | no verified public unit-water or unit-energy baseline for Cameroon garment dyehouses | Programme basis | Separate withdrawal, consumption and discharge per accepted unit. | PMS People and Sustainability sheet and meter calibration register. |
Fibre supply
340,000 t
seed-cotton output in 2024, approximately (national context)
GFT boundary Context only: not a GFT capacity, load or baseline figure.
Fibre flow
95%
of cotton fibre leaves Cameroon raw; about 5 percent is processed locally
GFT boundary Partner for spinning, knitting and wet processing in Phase 1.
Policy
50%
local processing by 2030 is a national ambition, not installed capacity
GFT boundary A target is not capacity: no figure here is installed equipment.
Industrial poles
12,000 t/yr
announced Camtext SA processing across Dibamba and Garoua (US$300 million)
GFT boundary Specify inbound fabric to fit emerging domestic poles.
Utilisation
10.83%
reported CICAM 2 utilisation in July 2023 (48.9 percent CICAM 1, 33.7 percent Garoua)
GFT boundary Avoid stranding wet-processing capital before demand is proven.
Accounting
None
no verified public unit-water or unit-energy baseline for Cameroon garment dyehouses
GFT boundary Separate withdrawal, consumption and discharge per accepted unit.
Programme basisAll external figures are reproduced from the programme evidence annex (prepared 31 January 2024, refreshed 2026) with their explicit qualifications. They describe national sector context and third-party announcements, not GFT operating baselines. Seed-cotton output is near 340,000 tonnes (R01), yet about 95 percent of lint fibre leaves the country raw (R06), against a policy ambition of 50 percent local processing by 2030 (R07).
Station film · RL-0417 · 4 stations
Each station changes the cloth and adds to its ticket. Scroll or press a station: the dip, the swatch and the ticket move together.
Ticket · per kg
0 L8 L32 L32 L
0.00 kWh0.56 kWh0.56 kWh2.56 kWh
Dry greige mass lockedBath at 8:1 on the ticketBath plus three rinsesΔE outside tolerance · HOLD
WP-01 About 95 °C · alkali and peroxide bath · absorbency drop-test (illustrative)WP-02 About 60 °C · dyestuff, salt and alkali · sub-meter litres, pH, ΔE (illustrative)WP-03 80 °C then 40 °C · effluent conductivity and pH · nip pressure (illustrative)WP-04 Chamber air 150 to 180 °C · no liquor · width, gsm, residual shrinkage (illustrative)
WP-01 · Pre-treat
WP-02 · Dye
WP-03 · Wash
WP-04 · Stenter
Workbook · six sheets, four KPIs, one filed ticket
Water and energy sit in Family 6 of the same six-sheet workbook and review cadence that govern output, quality and cost. Choose a KPI or a sheet to trace its links.
Node graph · choose a KPI or a sheet: its threads light and the read-out follows
Read-out · selected KPI
(Metered water withdrawal in period, L) / (Accepted finished units in period)(Thermal + electrical energy in period, kWh) / (Accepted finished units in period)(Batches passing shade and shrinkage on first pass) / (Total batches processed) × 100(Rejected yardage + trim waste, kg) / (Total greige fabric issued, kg) × 100Formula to gauge · illustrative worked values
(Metered water withdrawal in period, L) / (Accepted finished units in period)(Thermal + electrical energy in period, kWh) / (Accepted finished units in period)(Batches passing shade and shrinkage on first pass) / (Total batches processed) × 100(Rejected yardage + trim waste, kg) / (Total greige fabric issued, kg) × 100
The same water and heat were drawn for the whole lot: fewer accepted kilograms divide the same total, so the intensity rises.
32,000 L ÷ 1,000 kg = 32 L per kg
Reads shade holds, stenter stops and re-dye triggers.
Closes with a root-cause code on every rework batch.
Reads batch water and energy totals against the intake and thermal meters.
Closes with unallocated litres and fuel explained, and the KPI Dashboard updated.
Reads partner shade consistency, shrinkage stability and meter-ledger completeness.
Closes with every sustainability claim gated on a verified boundary.
Daily shift huddle (10-15 min) · Finishing Supervisor & QC Lead. Inspect shade-band holds, stenter stops and re-dye triggers before the next lot runs. The daily huddle focuses on immediate physical exceptions from the previous 24 hours: rolls held for shade delta, stenter temperature drops during power changeovers and inbound supplier rolls failing relaxation shrinkage.
Weekly plant reconciliation · Plant Manager & Utilities Engineer. Reconcile sub-meter water and energy totals against completed batch tickets. Weekly review closes the gap between physical utility meters and production logs. Unallocated water withdrawal or boiler fuel between batches indicates leaks, unlogged washdowns or unrecorded rework.
Monthly S&OP and partner audit · Leadership & Sourcing Lead. Evaluate upstream fabric partners on shade consistency, shrinkage stability and environmental evidence. In the monthly Sales and Operations Planning review, leadership evaluates whether partnered dyehouses meet quality and sustainability thresholds and assesses readiness for deeper vertical integration.
During Phase 0 and Phase 1, the PMS operates from a structured six-sheet Excel pack (Read Me, Line Log, Quality Log, Cost and Labour, People and Sustainability, and KPI Dashboard) designed so every column header and batch identifier maps directly into the Phase 2 core database without renaming. For wet processing, whether audited across upstream partners or metered on an internal finishing line, supervisors and plant engineers review three core intensities alongside first-pass shade yield across daily, weekly and monthly cadences.
32
L per kgkWh per kgpercentpercent
Water per accepted unitEnergy per accepted unitFirst-pass shade yieldProcess waste share
10 to 15 min review60 min reviewHalf day review
Batches · eight lengths of the same lot, illustrative
B4 · RL-0417
64 L · 5.12 kWh per kg
Custody One re-dye loop, load kept on the same ticket
Class Re-tested after the loop, then released
Illustrative: eight batches from the liquor model at 8:1, seven first-pass lots at 32 L per kg and one re-dyed lot at 64 L per kg. Litres per kg.
Whether dye-house operations run inside an integrated national pole or under toll-processing contracts, the physical engineering requirements remain identical. Shade variation between rolls ruins bundle matching in the cutting room, unrelaxed shrinkage distorts sewn seams after the first domestic wash, and unallocated water or thermal rework destroys unit-cost and sustainability credibility.
Facility-level bill averaging (conventional gap).
Batch-bound meter and custody ledger (GFT PMS contract).
Interlude · B4 is RL-0417
Batch ticket · B4 · illustrative
A re-dyed batch that sheds its first bath makes every downstream figure fiction.
01 · Primary bath · 1st resource load
Metered water withdrawal, salt, alkali and steam are logged against the batch ID.
02 · Shade gate · ΔE out of spec
An off-shade batch goes back into a corrective bath under a temporary ticket, or is absorbed into monthly utility overheads. The roll still ships as a clean first pass.
03 · Re-dye loop · Additive load
Stripping or topping bath adds water and thermal kWh to the same batch ID. Added water and stenter heat accumulate on the original batch record.
04 · Single release · 1x denominator
A shade hold is an explicit custody state. The batch ID stays locked, the corrective bath adds its metered water, chemicals and re-drying energy to the same genealogy, and the output denominator is credited once.
WP06 Water, dye and energy per unitFirst-bath load follows the liquor ratio set on the bench (illustrative, 1,000 kg lot).
Corridor · RL-0417 laid from Douala to Garoua
01 · High operational risk · Power
Provide dedicated standby generation for dye-vessel circulation pumps and stenter drive chains so fabric can be cleared safely during a grid trip before scorching or dye precipitation occurs.
Verification Line Log downtime-by-cause register (Power code) and batch salvage audit.
02 · High environmental gate · Water
Install separate flow meters on borehole/municipal intake, process reuse loops and final effluent discharge, paired with neutralisation, coagulation and biological treatment before release.
Verification PMS People and Sustainability water-balance ledger (withdrawal vs consumption vs discharge).
03 · Strategic siting choice · Siting and chemicals
Use coastal proximity in Douala-Dibamba for chemical imports, industrial power and fast domestic garment dispatch, while coordinating greige and yarn specifications with northern ginning and spinning hubs.
Verification Site-selection weighted scorecard and inbound roll lead-time tracker.
04 · Quality containment gate · Shade control
Group every incoming or finished fabric roll into strict shade families and relaxation-shrinkage brackets before storage so cutting markers never mix incompatible rolls in a single garment bundle.
Verification Quality Log inbound fabric acceptance rate and cutting-room shade-mismatch claims.
Grid-trip rig · programme analysis, illustrative
12 min without grid
Stopped 12 min with no standby: rope-mark risk builds toward the 20 min case.
12 min without grid · no standby
A wet-processing line cannot tolerate mid-bath power blackouts: a 20-minute circulation stop during reactive dyeing creates permanent rope marks and shade unevenness across the entire batch, while a sudden stenter stoppage scorches the fabric inside the heated chamber. Similarly, specialty reactive dyes, auxiliary wetting agents and laboratory testing consumables are imported through the Port of Douala, creating working-capital and lead-time exposure for inland sites.
The venture blueprint addresses these constraints by staging capital deployment (partnering upstream while building in-house garment and finishing discipline first) and specifying hard engineering controls wherever wet finishing or washing operates.
Comparing the coastal Douala-Dibamba corridor with the northern Garoua cotton belt exposes sharp trade-offs in water supply, effluent receiving bodies, thermal energy access and port proximity for dyestuffs.
Light box · RL-0417 leaves as band B
Once a roll clears the stenter exit gate, its batch identifier, width tolerance and per-unit water and energy record travel to the cutting room with it.
Illustrative gate: release at 3 percent or less. A real gate is set per buyer specification.
ΔE within band B
RL-0417 · roll tag, illustrative
One re-dye loop, kept on the ticket
ACCEPTED
One sealed roll, one denominator.
Programme analytical synthesis prepared 31 January 2024 with the evidence annex refreshed in 2026. External citations keep their source qualifications. The liquor model, the roll tag, RL-0417 and the grid-trip case are illustrative design models, not operating results, and not financial, legal or tax advice. Next stage in motion: Cutting receives shade-banded rolls, maps surface defects under a line-scan camera bar and converts continuous yardage into numbered garment bundles.