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Chapter 02 of 14 · Part I · Draft web edition

Ramp-up is a learning system, not a reduced steady state

Early targets should describe a controlled learning trajectory, with yield, rate and capability observed together rather than assumed away.

Sections
7
Exhibits
5
Minutes
28
Sources
25
EX 06 · Wk 5: Good output index 54, First-pass yield (%) 72, Skill coverage (%) 65 (illustrative cohort index (0 to 100))

The cloth is woven from this chapter's 5 exhibits: each weft is one exhibit's own data, normalised; each warp group is a section. The probe reads the exhibit's own value where it crosses. Procedural visualisation, not a measurement.

The chapter as a draft: 7 sections, 4 exhibit wefts, one shuttle.

Lead exhibit · 06TrajectoryillustrativeA useful ramp view separates output, yield and competence
20406080100Wk 1Wk 2Wk 3Wk 4Wk 5Wk 6Wk 7Wk 8

Read-outWk 1: Good output index 22, First-pass yield (%) 64, Skill coverage (%) 35 (illustrative cohort index (0 to 100))

Method and source

Illustrative GFT cohort trajectories over eight production weeks for one style and method revision. Good output, first-pass yield and demonstrated skill coverage move at different rates and dip at Week 5 when an unapproved speed push outruns skill and method stability. Rationale from S11 and S12; values are an illustrative model, not a GFT factory observation.

Unit: illustrative cohort index (0 to 100). Status: illustrative. Sources: S11, S12. Illustrative figures are teaching examples, not measured factory results.

The chapter's warpBar: share of the reading · square: an exhibit

Section 2.0 · Opening · 1 min · no exhibit of its own · one movement Go to section ↓

The chapter cloth8 warp groups · one pick per paragraph

This paragraph previews 2.18 · Targets should widen where evidence is thin

A greenfield garment factory cannot manage its opening months by taking a mature factory's steady-state targets and scaling them down by an arbitrary percentage. Empirical research on production ramp-up demonstrates that a newly introduced manufacturing process is initially poorly understood, which causes low yields and low production rates to appear at the same time.[S11] Treating early shifts as a smaller version of steady-state production confuses two distinct management problems: learning how to execute a repeatable method without defects, and accelerating throughput once that method holds. Green Future Tech Limited (GFT), Hong Kong SAR, designs performance-management systems around a stricter premise. During ramp-up, the line is a structured learning system whose primary output is verified capability alongside saleable garments, and every target must link good output, first-pass yield and demonstrated competence inside a clearly bounded cohort.[S11][S12]

That distinction carries direct financial and industrial consequences where local processing is expanding from a narrow base. In Cameroon, inherited sector evidence indicates that about 95 percent of cotton fibre is exported raw while about 5 percent is processed locally, against a national target of 50 percent local processing by 2030.[R06][R07] Separate public reporting on the announced Camtext SA project cites planned processing of 12,000 tonnes a year, about 12,000 jobs at Dibamba and 3,000 at Garoua, an estimated return on investment near 11 years and optimal capacity around 2033, while July 2023 reports on CICAM recorded capacity utilisation of 33.7 percent at Garoua, 48.9 percent at CICAM 1 and 10.83 percent at CICAM 2.[R10][R12] Those figures describe sector context rather than a GFT operating result or demand forecast, yet they show why capital recovery in textiles depends on disciplined ramp control. When a new cut, make, trim and finishing plant mistakes early volume pressure for maturity, rework and turnover erode the capacity the investment case assumed.

2.13 min · 2 sub-steps · 1 exhibit

Yield and speed must be managed as joint outcomes

Step 1 of 3Intro

Related exhibit 26 · chapter 06Before and aftersourcedFirst-pass yield and flow should be evaluated together
0255075100First-pass yield (%)Processing time (hours)

Read-outFirst-pass yield (%): Baseline condition 10, Post-improvement condition 90. Difference +80 (percent or processing hours (NIST MEP case S10))

Method and source

Sourced from the NIST MEP returned-material process case (S10): first-pass yield moved from 10 percent to 90 percent, and total processing time moved from 11.8 hours to 3.4 hours. Presented strictly as that external case, not as a garment benchmark or GFT target.

Unit: percent or processing hours (NIST MEP case S10). Status: sourced. Sources: S10.

Read this exhibit in its chapter ↗

2.1 · Introduction

A ramp-up measurement system fails if a line can report rising piece counts while concealing the defects, repairs and unrecorded overtime used to produce them.

Exhibit 26, chapter 06: First-pass yield (%)

2.2 · Why gross piece counts distort early line behaviour

The arithmetic of rework explains why yield and speed cannot be separated.

Exhibit 26, chapter 06: First-pass yield (%)

2.3 · Reviewing the triad on one cohort axis

Before a plant director or line supervisor approves an increase in line speed, the performance record must show how output, quality and skill coverage are moving together.

Exhibit 26, chapter 06: Processing time (hours)

2.1 · the bodyThe film above follows these sub-steps.

A ramp-up measurement system fails if a line can report rising piece counts while concealing the defects, repairs and unrecorded overtime used to produce them. Terwiesch and Bohn show that early commercial manufacturing combines incomplete process knowledge, frequent disturbances and simultaneous pressure on production rate and yield.[S11] Because material handling, machine settings and operator motion are still stabilising, pushing speed alone routinely raises fault rates. A sewing line that runs faster by skipping alignment checks or bypassing in-line inspection does not create real capacity; it builds a hidden queue of defective bundles that must be unpicked, recut or downgraded later.

To prevent speed from masquerading as progress, GFT specifies a joint review rule from shift one: good output, first-pass yield and cycle time must be read together on the same board and in the same daily meeting. International Labour Organization (ILO) lean guidance for garment factories stresses balancing financial, behavioural and core-process metrics while combining in-process and end-of-process indicators.[S02] During ramp-up, gross pieces sewn can never stand alone as the headline metric. A line advances only when completed units pass their first boundary without repair, recut or reinspection-driven correction, and when the bottleneck station holds its pace within the approved method.[S02][S10]

¶ 02 · 2 sources

S02S10

2.2 Why gross piece counts distort early line behaviour

2.2

The arithmetic of rework explains why yield and speed cannot be separated. A National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) Manufacturing Extension Partnership case documented a process where raising first-pass yield from 10 percent to 90 percent accompanied a reduction in total processing time from 11.8 hours to 3.4 hours.[S10] Although that sourced case comes from a specific manufacturing intervention rather than a garment benchmark, the mechanism applies directly to apparel assembly. Every bundle that fails first-pass inspection consumes sewing minutes twice: once when the fault is sewn, and again when a skilled operator unpicks the seam, re-sews the piece and returns it to inspection.[S10] Diverting scarce skilled operators to repair defects starves the main line of the competence needed to stabilise flow.

¶ 03 · 1 source

…where raising first-pass yield from 10 percent to 90 percent accompanied a reduction in…S10

S10

2.3 Reviewing the triad on one cohort axis

2.3

Before a plant director or line supervisor approves an increase in line speed, the performance record must show how output, quality and skill coverage are moving together. The illustrative trajectories in Exhibit 6 show how GFT structures this joint view across an eight-week cohort for a single garment style and method revision.[S11][S12]

¶ 04 · 2 sourcesExhibit 06

S11S12

In Exhibit 6, the illustrative series progress together from Week 1 to Week 4 as operators master the specified method and in-line quality stabilises, moving from an illustrative good-output index of 22 and first-pass yield of 64 percent at Week 1 to an illustrative index of 58 and yield of 81 percent at Week 4.[S11] At Week 5, the chart models a typical ramp failure mode: management demands a higher hourly quota before demonstrated skill coverage has expanded beyond an illustrative 65 percent of stations.[S12] First-pass yield drops from 81 percent to 72 percent in this illustrative sequence, rework absorbs station time, and net good output falls from 58 to 54 even though machines are running faster. Only when the line restores method discipline and completes cross-training in Weeks 6 to 8 does the illustrative good-output index reach 82 alongside a 92 percent first-pass yield. What this exhibit cannot establish is a universal weekly slope for all factories; every product family and workforce starts from its own empirical condition, which is why the underlying cohort baseline must be defined before any curve is plotted.

¶ 05 · 2 sources

…an illustrative good-output index of 22 and first-pass yield of 64 percent at Week…S11 · illustrative

Exhibit 06

S11S12

2.43 min · 2 sub-steps · read with a related exhibit

A baseline is a dated population, not a single number

Related · chapter 11 · Exhibit 51Line boardillustrativeThe line board pairs results with causes and responses

Read-out · illustrativeCumulative target vs actual: 260 vs 242 pcs. Hour 4 completed pieces against ramp-adjusted pace (65 pcs/hr at 24.0 SMV)

Method and source

Illustrative: GFT hour-by-hour line-board layout for one 8-hour sewing shift (40 operators, 24.0 SMV woven trouser, ramp cohort week 4 at 65 percent target efficiency). Values are illustrative design entries showing how balanced in-process and end-of-process measures (S02), daily line balancing (S04) and unmerged downtime causes (S07) appear with an explicit owner and response window. Not an observed GFT factory result.

Unit: illustrative shift-board control blocks. Status: illustrative. Sources: S02, S04, S07. Illustrative figures are teaching examples, not measured factory results.

Read this exhibit in chapter 11 ↗

Credible factory improvement starts by establishing where performance stands before interventions begin, yet greenfield plants often reduce their baseline to a single undated average. In the ILO's Sustainable Competitive and Responsible Enterprises (SCORE) programme in Ethiopia's garment industry, trainers begin at step zero with a baseline assessment to identify operational gaps and measure change through key performance indicators.[S05] Statistical process control (SPC) likewise rests on comparing what is happening today with what happened previously.[S09] Neither approach works if "what happened previously" is an undocumented mix of different styles, shifting rosters, fabric substitutions and provisional sewing methods.

¶ 01 · 2 sources

S05S09

In a greenfield garment factory, the first shifts generate a dated, conditional population of observations rather than a static scalar. If Line A produces a basic crew-neck T-shirt during its first fortnight and switches to a woven work shirt in week three, pooling those two periods into one monthly "baseline efficiency" destroys comparability. Output changes between those windows reflect work content and method novelty, not worker effort. GFT therefore defines a baseline as a governed data object carrying a mandatory cohort header.[S05][S09]

¶ 02 · 2 sources

S05S09

2.5 Six attributes that bound a valid ramp baseline

2.5

No baseline figure may enter a management review or planning tool unless six boundary attributes are recorded alongside the numeric value:

¶ 03
  1. Product style and construction family: style identifier, fabric weight class, construction type and size ratio, keeping work content comparable.[S03]
  2. Operation and process boundary: whether capture occurs at a critical sewing operation, an in-line roving check, or end-of-line passage before packing.[S02]
  3. Line, shift and core roster stability: line identifier, shift, attended operator count and share of operators retained from cohort start, separating learning from turnover.[S04][S18]
  4. Approved method revision and SMV version: version identifier of the operation breakdown, attachment setup and standard minute value (SMV) in force.[S03]
  5. Observation window and cumulative volume: start and end dates, completed shifts and cumulative bundles processed since the cohort opened.[S05][S11]
  6. Measurement protocol and observer check: counting rule, defect taxonomy and inspection verification status, confirming that yield shifts reflect process behaviour rather than inspector drift.[S40]

2.6 Population boundaries in external and internal comparisons

2.6

The same discipline applies when sponsors compare early baselines with external benchmarks. In Cameroon, shared evidence records show a statutory minimum wage (SMIG) raised from XAF 41,875 a month in 2023 to XAF 43,969 a month from 23 February 2024 (about US$76, up 5 percent), a 40-hour standard week, a 48-hour maximum and overtime at 1.2 times base pay, with informal employment near 90 percent of the workforce.[R14][R16] A greenfield plant recruiting first-time industrial operators draws from a distinct labour-market population.[R16] Its initial two-week baseline measures that cohort's starting point; it cannot be compared directly with a mature plant in Cambodia (where the 2024 garment minimum wage was US$204 a month) without adjusting for tenure, style familiarity and supervision.[R17][S13]

¶ 04 · 4 sources

a 40-hour standard weekR14, R16

R14R16R17S13

Note · 3 sources

S05S09S0201

2.73 min · 1 sub-steps · 1 exhibit

Learning curves need comparable work and explicit resets

Exhibit 075 paragraphs step it

Exhibit 07RegisterderivedEvery ramp baseline requires a dated cohort header and a reset rule
Cohort attribute
Style and family
Recorded field
Style ID and construction class
Reset rule when attribute changes
Open new cohort; keep family link
Decision protected
Prevents mixing unlike garment complexity

Read-outCohort attribute: Style and family. Recorded field: Style ID and construction class. Reset rule when attribute changes: Open new cohort; keep family link. Decision protected: Prevents mixing unlike garment complexity

Open the full register (5 rows)
Style and familyStyle ID and construction classOpen new cohort; keep family linkPrevents mixing unlike garment complexity
Method and SMVApproved breakdown and SMV versionFreeze prior series; start new cohortSeparates method redesign from operator speed
Line and shiftLine ID, shift and core roster shareFlag break if turnover exceeds ruleIsolates staffing churn from individual learning
Material and setupFabric batch class and machine setupSplit cohort on material spec changePrevents fabric faults reading as operator error
Observation windowStart date, bundles and shift countRequire sample before narrowing bandStops single-shift noise setting fixed targets
Method and source

Derived by GFT from baseline assessment principles in S05, method-based SMV conditions in S03, daily line-balancing practice in S04 and ramp process-learning constraints in S11. No factory values are assumed.

Unit: cohort governance attributes. Status: derived. Sources: S03, S04, S05, S11.

2.7 · Introduction · paragraph 1 of 5

Industrial engineers rely on learning curves to plan capacity and pace line targets, yet learning curves are misapplied when factories ignore the assumptions behind standard work. As documented in the ILO's analysis of textiles and clothing in Ghana, the Standard Minute Value (SMV) is the time value arrived at for a task based on the average rate of output that qualified workers naturally achieve without over-exertion, provided they know and adhere to the specified method and are motivated to apply themselves.[S03] Similarly, the IFC and ILO Better Work assessment of Bangladesh garment factories notes that engineers break each style into steps, assign an SMV to each step for a fully efficient operator, multiply the garment SMV by completed pieces to obtain output minutes, and divide by available sewing minutes to calculate line efficiency, which in their factory sample typically ranged between 45 percent and 70 percent on any given day.[S14][S0204]

Every word in the SMV definition constrains how a learning curve may be read during ramp-up.[S03] When a greenfield line starts, operators are still becoming "qualified workers", the "specified method" is being refined on the floor, and supervisors are still learning daily balancing.[S03][S04] If an engineer alters the sewing method, adds a folder attachment, or changes seam construction, the task denominator has changed. Plotting output across that change as one uninterrupted learning curve mixes method engineering with human repetition.

2.8 What forces a cohort reset

To keep learning trajectories honest, GFT enforces explicit reset rules in master data. Exhibit 7 summarises how GFT derives cohort attributes and reset triggers from garment-engineering and ramp-up principles.[S03][S04][S05][S11]

As Exhibit 7 makes clear, a cohort reset is not an admission of failure; it is an accounting boundary that preserves analytical truth.[S03][S11] When a line moves to a new garment style, or when industrial engineering issues a revised operation breakdown that alters station work content, the system freezes the prior cohort series and opens a new cohort linked by product family. Because Exhibit 7 is a governance contract rather than an empirical dataset, it cannot tell a plant manager how many days a specific reset will cost; instead, it ensures that once the reset occurs, the factory measures the true recovery time rather than burying it inside a smoothed monthly average.

Key figures from chapter 07 · Exhibit 34Key figuresillustrativeOTIF reconciles the due-order population with fulfilled promises
  • 80Orders dueIllustrative denominator
  • 64Received on time and in fullIllustrative numerator
  • 16Not OTIFSix short, four late, two received late after dispatch, four other
  • 80%OTIF64 divided by 80, multiplied by 100

Read-outOrders due: 80. Illustrative denominator

Method and source

Illustrative worked example. 64 OTIF orders + 16 orders not OTIF = 80 orders due. OTIF rate = 64 / 80 x 100 = 80 percent. These are assumed values used to demonstrate the calculation.

Unit: illustrative orders and percent. Status: illustrative. Illustrative figures are teaching examples, not measured factory results.

Read this exhibit in its chapter ↗

2.92 min · 2 sub-steps · read with a related exhibit

Skill retention belongs on the ramp agenda

A greenfield ramp-up plan typically budgets for pre-launch induction training, yet treats operator competence as permanent once a course ends. Apparel research refutes that assumption. A study in Applied Sciences evaluating manual skill degradation in apparel manufacturing shows that sewing skills degrade when operators leave specific manual tasks or when task allocations shift, concluding that capacity-development drills are essential to maintain an efficient required skill set.[S12] During ramp-up, skill decay and partial mastery appear constantly: an operator trained on pocket setting during induction may spend three weeks on simple overlocking while early styles run, then struggle when rotated back to complex top-stitching.

2.10 Why course attendance is not a capability measure

2.10

Counting training hours or certificates measures an input, not line capability. Supervisors face daily absenteeism, uneven cycle times and style changeovers that require moving operators across operations.[S04][S18] If the skill matrix only records classroom attendance, the supervisor discovers too late that the operator cannot hold seam tolerance at line speed. Better Work research also shows that using excessive overtime to cover skill gaps leads to poorer worker health, reduced efficiency, higher accident rates, dissatisfaction and turnover, stripping learned skill from the line.[S18]

¶ 02 · 2 sources

S04S18

2.11 Structuring an evidence-based skill matrix

2.11

GFT replaces attendance logs with an operation-level demonstrated skill matrix connected to the line-balancing board and quality log.[S03][S04][S12] For each operator and critical operation, the record tracks four verifiable levels and a recency clock:

¶ 03 · 3 sources

S03S04S12

  • Level 1 (In training / drill stage): off-line method instruction completed; practising capacity-development drills on panels, not yet cleared for unassisted bundles.[S12]
  • Level 2 (Method-qualified under supervision): adheres to the specified method and meets first-pass quality on live bundles within a learning speed band below full SMV pace.[S03]
  • Level 3 (Standard-capable at SMV and FPY): consistently achieves the approved SMV rate and first-pass yield threshold across a multi-shift window without elevated rework.[S03][S10]
  • Level 4 (Multi-operation relief and coach): holds Level 3 capability across multiple bottleneck operations and supports peer drills during rebalancing.[S04][S12]
List · 4 sources

S12S03S10S04

Every Level 2, Level 3 and Level 4 entry carries a last-demonstrated date and method revision tag. If an operator has not performed a complex operation within a defined recency window (such as an illustrative 30 to 45 days) or if the method revision changes, the matrix flags a refresher drill before scheduling that operator as full capacity.[S12]

¶ 04 · 1 source

…window (such as an illustrative 30 to 45 days) or if the method revision…S12 · illustrative

S12

2.122 min · 2 sub-steps · read with a related exhibit

Supervisor practice turns classroom content into line capability

Operators do not learn in a vacuum; the line supervisor controls the daily conditions under which operator learning consolidates or breaks down. In garment manufacturing, line balancing is performed systematically by line supervisors before production through planning and daily during production.[S04] When a bundle queue builds up, thread breaks recur, or a seam allowance drifts, the supervisor's response determines whether the event becomes a coaching moment or a confrontation that triggers defects and turnover.

Empirical garment-sector studies confirm both the value of supervisory training and the time required for classroom concepts to become floor habit. In a randomised evaluation of supervisory skills training in Cambodia published by the International Finance Corporation (IFC), training improved workers' perceptions of supervisor relationships and produced moderate improvements in firm productivity.[S13] Similarly, the 2025 IFC and ILO Better Work assessment of the Gender Equality and Returns (GEAR) programme in Bangladesh documented that trainees attended classroom sessions two days a week for five weeks while working as trainee supervisors on remaining days, and then shadowed a supervisor on a production line for another six to eight weeks.[S14]

¶ 02 · 2 sources

S13S14

2.13 Why supervisory capability lags classroom completion

2.13

Even when supervisor candidates hold strong technical skills, floor performance takes months to stabilise because supervision is both a social and an operational role. In a field experiment across 24 large Bangladesh garment factories published by the National Bureau of Economic Research (NBER), researchers randomly assigned marginal female and male supervisor candidates to manage production lines.[S0202] Baseline diagnostics showed few skill differences between them; initially, however, marginal female candidates had lower line productivity and subordinate evaluations due to negative initial worker beliefs, before those gaps disappeared after four to six months and female supervisor retention rose significantly above baseline.[S0202]

¶ 03 · 1 source

In a field experiment across 24 large Bangladesh garment factories published by the National…S0202

S0202

That four-to-six-month convergence window in the NBER study and the six-to-eight-week shadowing period in GEAR carry a direct lesson for ramp planning.[S14][S0202] A factory cannot run a brief pre-launch workshop and expect mature line balancing on shift one, nor should it treat early transitional friction as proof that trainee supervisors lack capability.[S0202]

¶ 04 · 2 sources

S14S0202

2.14 Observable gates for supervisory readiness

2.14

Rather than grading supervisors solely on raw output during early shifts, GFT gates supervisory readiness on four observable behaviours during shadowing and initial line assignment:

¶ 05
  • Structured start-of-shift huddles: leading a focused five-to-ten-minute illustrative huddle that reviews prior-shift first-pass yield, names the bottleneck operation and sets daily priorities without blame.[S02][S05]
  • Pre-production and daily line balancing: checking attendance and the skill matrix at shift start, reallocating tasks to match work content, and rebalancing stations during the shift when WIP queues exceed buffer bands.[S04][S12]
  • Timely abnormality escalation: separating issues solvable at the line from constraints requiring immediate escalation to maintenance, cutting or quality assurance.[S02]
  • Constructive, respectful coaching: correcting method deviations at the needle point through calm demonstration rather than verbal pressure, protecting the relational trust linked to productivity gains.[S13]
List · 5 sources

S02S05S04S12S13

Note · 2 sources

S14S0202

2.153 min · 2 sub-steps · 1 exhibit

Training claims require a counterfactual or a cautious label

When sponsors prepare a greenfield business case or evaluate workforce training during ramp-up, it is tempting to paste headline percentage gains from published studies into financial spreadsheets as guaranteed productivity jumps. Rigorous performance management prohibits that shortcut. Published apparel evaluations owe their credibility to explicit counterfactual designs (randomised control groups, matched comparison lines and regression controls for style complexity), and their exact magnitudes belong to the populations studied.[S13][S15][S0204]

Consider the controlled apparel training evaluation reported by the World Bank's Development Impact group from a ready-made garment export firm in southern India, where female operators worked in lines of about 70 to 100 workers benchmarked by standard allowable minutes.[S15] Researchers randomised lines and workers within treatment lines to receive an 80-hour soft-skills programme (Personal Advancement and Career Enhancement) over 11 months.[S15] Controlling for garment style fixed effects and tenure, trained workers produced about 6 more garments per hour, or 10 percent more relative to the control group, while efficiency rose by 7 percentage points (12 percent relative to controls) and technical training requests rose by about 15 percentage points.[S15] Overall attrition across 26 months left about 25 to 30 percent of the initial sample, and the productivity gains materialised after training completed rather than during the course.[S15]

¶ 02 · 1 source

…worked in lines of about 70 to 100 workers benchmarked by standard allowable minutesS15

S15

A second controlled case comes from the 2025 IFC and ILO Better Work assessment of the GEAR supervisor programme in Bangladesh.[S14][S0204] Controlling for garment complexity and factory characteristics, lines managed by GEAR-trained supervisors were 2.5 percentage points more efficient than lines managed by all comparison supervisors (rising from 57.0 percent to 59.5 percent, not statistically significant in the pooled sample), and 4.3 percentage points more efficient than lines managed exclusively by male comparison supervisors (rising from 57.0 percent to 61.3 percent, significant at the 0.05 level).[S0204]

¶ 03 · 2 sources

…managed by GEAR-trained supervisors were 2.5 percentage points more efficient than lines managed by…S0204

S14S0204

2.16 Showing the comparison behind every training number

2.16

To show external evidence without turning case results into promises, Exhibit 8 plots the comparison baselines and trained outcomes from these sourced evaluations alongside the Cambodian supervisory study.[S13][S14][S15][S0204]

Exhibit 08Before and aftersourcedTraining evaluation must show the comparison behind the effect
406080100120PACE hourly output (index)PACE SAM efficiency (index)GEAR vs all comparison (%)GEAR vs male comparison (%)

Read-outPACE hourly output (index): Control or comparison baseline 100, Trained cohort outcome 110. Difference +10 (index (control = 100) or line efficiency (%))

Method and source

Sourced from controlled evaluations in S15 (Indian apparel PACE study: output +10 percent and efficiency +12 percent relative to control indexed at 100) and S0204/S14 (Bangladesh GEAR study: line efficiency 57.0 percent vs 59.5 percent all comparison lines, and 57.0 percent vs 61.3 percent male-supervised comparison lines). Complemented by S13. Case results are non-transferable.

Unit: index (control = 100) or line efficiency (%). Status: sourced. Sources: S15, S13, S14, S0204.

Inspecting Exhibit 8 shows why the counterfactual is as important as the treatment outcome.[S15][S0204] In the Indian PACE study, the 10 percent output gain (100.0 to 110.0) and 12 percent relative efficiency gain (100.0 to 112.0) were identified only by tracking untreated control lines on comparable styles and controlling for tenure.[S15] In the Bangladesh GEAR study, the contrast between the 2.5 percentage-point gap against all comparison supervisors (57.0 percent to 59.5 percent) and the 4.3 percentage-point gap against male comparison supervisors (57.0 percent to 61.3 percent) depended on specifying the comparison group and controlling for style complexity.[S0204] What Exhibit 8 cannot establish is that a new factory in Cameroon will automatically gain 6 garments an hour or 4.3 percentage points of efficiency by running a similarly named course.

¶ 01 · 2 sources

the 10 percent output gain (100.0 to 110.0) and 12 percent relative efficiency gain…S15

Exhibit 08

S15S0204

2.17 How GFT evaluates local training without a research team

2.17

A commercial factory does not need an academic team to apply counterfactual discipline during ramp-up, but it needs a structured comparison rule:

¶ 02
  1. Matched-cohort or staggered-line comparison (preferred): when a drill or supervisory module launches on Line 1, Line 2 (running a complexity-adjusted style family with similar tenure) serves as the contemporaneous comparison line before receiving the module next cycle.[S05][S15]
  2. Pre-post cohort comparison within a frozen method window (cautious label): when only one line runs a product family, post-training shifts are compared against the locked baseline window for that exact style and method revision.[S03][S05] Because repetition learning occurs simultaneously during ramp-up, any gain in a simple before-and-after series must be labelled combined learning and training movement, never claimed as the isolated effect of training alone.[S11]
List · 4 sources

S05S15S03S11

2.184 min · 2 sub-steps · 2 exhibits

Targets should widen where evidence is thin

Step 1 of 7Method adherence

Exhibit 09 · illustrativeLeading learning signals sit beside lagging production results

Shift learning controlsCohort capability gatesEarly warning monitorsLagging commercial outcomesReview horizon (shift to monthly) →Direct line controllability during ramp →Method adherenceIn-line FPYSkill coverageHuddle qualityCycle stabilityShift good outputCohort unit cost
Shift learning controlsCohort capability gatesEarly warning monitorsLagging commercialoutcomesReview horizon (shift to monthly) →Direct line controllability during ramp →Method adherenceIn-line FPYSkill coverageHuddle qualityCycle stabilityShift good outputCohort unit cost

Method adherence

Method adherence: Review horizon (shift to monthly) 2, Direct line controllability during ramp 8.8. Quadrant: Shift learning controls · illustrative

The final requirement of a ramp-as-learning system governs how targets are set and tightened.

In-line FPY

In-line FPY: Review horizon (shift to monthly) 3, Direct line controllability during ramp 8. Quadrant: Shift learning controls · illustrative

Skill coverage

Skill coverage: Review horizon (shift to monthly) 6.2, Direct line controllability during ramp 7.8. Quadrant: Cohort capability gates · illustrative

Huddle quality

Huddle quality: Review horizon (shift to monthly) 3.8, Direct line controllability during ramp 7.2. Quadrant: Shift learning controls · illustrative

Cycle stability

Cycle stability: Review horizon (shift to monthly) 4.6, Direct line controllability during ramp 6.4. Quadrant: Shift learning controls · illustrative

Shift good output

Shift good output: Review horizon (shift to monthly) 6.8, Direct line controllability during ramp 4.2. Quadrant: Lagging commercial outcomes · illustrative

Cohort unit cost

Cohort unit cost: Review horizon (shift to monthly) 8.5, Direct line controllability during ramp 2.5. Quadrant: Lagging commercial outcomes · illustrative

The method behind it: GFT note.

Method and source · Exhibit 09

Illustrative GFT classification of ramp indicators across review horizon (x-axis: 0 = immediate shift check to 10 = monthly cohort review) and line controllability (y-axis: 0 = lagging outcome to 10 = direct line control), applying S02, S05 and S45. Coordinates are conceptual placements, not empirical measurements.

Unit: illustrative horizon and controllability score (0 to 10). Status: illustrative. Sources: S02, S05, S45. Illustrative figures are teaching examples, not measured factory results.

2.18 · the bodyExhibit 09 above; its figures are illustrative where marked.

The final requirement of a ramp-as-learning system governs how targets are set and tightened. United States Office of Personnel Management guidance states that performance standards should be measurable, understandable, verifiable, equitable and achievable.[S45] Imposing a narrow steady-state efficiency quota on a greenfield line in Week 2 violates those criteria. When the process is poorly understood, standard minutes are provisional and inspection repeatability is unverified, a single-point quota is neither verifiable nor equitable.[S11][S40][S45]

2.19 Leading learning signals versus lagging production results

2.19

To keep standards equitable and actionable during ramp-up, management must match each indicator to the horizon and controllability appropriate to the line's maturity. Following the ILO principle of combining in-process and end-of-process metrics across behavioural, process and financial dimensions, Exhibit 9 maps seven ramp indicators across review horizon and direct line controllability.[S02][S05][S45]

¶ 02 · 3 sourcesExhibit 09

S02S05S45

In Exhibit 9, the upper-left quadrant (Shift learning controls) holds measures that operators and supervisors influence immediately: method adherence (illustrative coordinates 2.0, 8.8), in-line first-pass yield (3.0, 8.0), supervisor huddle quality (3.8, 7.2) and cycle stability (4.6, 6.4).[S02][S04] The upper-right quadrant (Cohort capability gates) holds demonstrated skill coverage (6.2, 7.8), built through weekly drills.[S12] Shift good output (6.8, 4.2) and cohort unit cost variance (8.5, 2.5) sit in the lower-right quadrant (Lagging commercial outcomes) because early ramp output and cost depend heavily on cutting readiness, material batches, machine debugging and cohort age.[S11] Holding operators accountable for lagging unit cost variance in Week 2 is inequitable; holding line leadership accountable for method adherence, in-line defect capture and daily balancing is both equitable and verifiable.[S04][S45]

¶ 03 · 5 sources

7.2) and cycle stability (4.6S02, S04 · illustrative

Exhibit 09

S02S04S12S11S45

2.20 Narrowing target bands through statistical and operational gates

2.20

NIST statistical process control guidance explains that control limits are chosen so almost all points fall within them while the process remains in control, and that capability indices ($C_p$, $C_{pk}$) compare an in-control, stable process against specification limits using a sample size generally thought to be about 50 independent data values.[S09][S0201][S0203] Furthermore, NIST guidance on Gauge R&R studies emphasises characterising gauge and observer errors (repeatability, reproducibility and bias) so measurement error is not mistaken for process variation.[S40]

¶ 04 · 4 sources

…generally thought to be about 50 independent data valuesS09, S0201, S0203

S09S0201S0203S40

In the opening shifts of a garment cohort, the process is not yet in statistical control, completed shifts are far below 50 independent observations, and visual inspectors are still calibrating agreement on stitch faults.[S11][S40][S0201] Setting a tight point target under those conditions rewards noise and punishes honest defect reporting. Instead, GFT narrows review bands across four capability gates, as illustrated in Exhibit 10.[S09][S40][S45][S0201]

¶ 05 · 5 sources

completed shifts are far below 50 independent observationsS11, S40, S0201

Exhibit 10

S11S40S0201S09S45

The four gates in Exhibit 10 translate statistical and managerial readiness into practical floor governance:

  • Gate 1 (Method proving, illustrative band 30 to 55 percent of SMV rate, midpoint 42 percent): the operation breakdown and machine setup are being tested on the first bundles. The review checks whether the method is executable without over-exertion and whether inspection definitions are clear; no piece-rate or narrow output quota is permitted.[S03][S40]
  • Gate 2 (Initial cohort learning, illustrative band 45 to 68 percent, midpoint 56 percent): the method revision is frozen and the baseline cohort window opens.[S05] Management reviews daily progress inside a wide learning band while tracking whether in-line first-pass yield rises alongside speed and whether supervisors execute daily line balancing.[S04][S11]
  • Gate 3 (Balanced line, illustrative band 62 to 78 percent, midpoint 70 percent): demonstrated skill coverage reaches the primary bottleneck stations, supervisor shadowing milestones are verified, and inspector agreement passes repeatability checks.[S12][S14][S40] The review band narrows because special-cause startups have been removed.
  • Gate 4 (Capable baseline, illustrative band 75 to 85 percent, midpoint 80 percent): the cohort has accumulated at least 50 independent subgroup or shift observations under a stable method, variation stays within control limits, and first-pass yield holds above its guardrail.[S09][S0201][S0203] Only at Gate 4 does the factory lock a narrow operational target for commercial planning and routine variance management.[S45]

Again, the specific percentages in Exhibit 10 are illustrative planning bands rather than a universal norm: remember that even across established garment factories in the Bangladesh GEAR sample, typical daily line efficiency ranged widely between 45 percent and 70 percent.[S14][S0204] The transferable principle is the gating logic itself: a target earns the right to be narrow only when the underlying process, skill matrix, supervisory routine and measurement system have proved they can support it.

¶ 07 · 2 sources

typical daily line efficiency ranged widely between 45 percent and 70 percentS14, S0204 · illustrative

Exhibit 10

S14S0204

By treating ramp-up as a governed learning system, the factory protects its earliest shifts from theatrical targets and builds a clean, cohort-indexed record from day one. With that learning contract in place, the next chapter examines how strategic business outcomes cascade into the six KPI families and line-level measures without losing operational control.

¶ 08

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25 sources · 180 citation marks on this pageMost cited: S03, 17 times

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R06 · Grade C · inherited record

Cameroon Trade Hub

Inherited evidence R06

About 95 percent of cotton fibre exported raw against 5 percent processed locally; industrialisation target of 50 percent local processing.

Publication date unrecorded. Inherited source-text record. The original publication has not been independently reopened for this web edition.

Chapter source notes

S11 International Journal of Production Economics, Elsevier. 2001-10-26.

S12 Applied Sciences, MDPI. 2021-11-23.

R06 Cameroon Trade Hub. Publication date unrecorded; inherited source-text check.

R07 Ecofin Agency. Publication date unrecorded; inherited source-text check.

R10 Ecofin Agency. Publication date unrecorded; inherited source-text check.

R12 Business in Cameroon. Publication date unrecorded; inherited source-text check.

S02 International Labour Organization. 2017-09-18.

S10 National Institute of Standards and Technology, Manufacturing Extension Partnership. 2022-08-04.

S05 International Labour Organization. 2022-06-01.

S09 NIST/SEMATECH. 2003-06-01.

S03 International Labour Organization. 2024-01-17.

S04 International Labour Organization. 2023-03-21.

S18 ILO and IFC, Better Work. 2023-03-28.

S40 NIST/SEMATECH. 2003-06-01.

R14 WageIndicator. Publication date unrecorded; inherited source-text check.

R16 WageIndicator. Publication date unrecorded; inherited source-text check.

R17 just-style. Publication date unrecorded; inherited source-text check.

S13 International Finance Corporation. 2009-11-01.

S0201 NIST/SEMATECH. 2003-06-01.

S14 IFC and ILO, Better Work. 2025-07-16.

S0204 IFC and ILO, Better Work. 2025-07-16.

S0202 National Bureau of Economic Research. 2020-08-03.

S15 World Bank. 2017-09-07.

S45 United States Office of Personnel Management. 2019-11-04.

S0203 NIST/SEMATECH. 2003-06-01.

Keep the thread · chapter 02 of 14

Chapter 03 picks up the thread.

Move the shuttle along the rack to preview any chapter: its sections, exhibits and reading time. Draft web edition. This research is not investment, legal or tax advice; illustrative models are not measured factory results.

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03Part I: The measurement contract

A KPI cascade succeeds only when the line can act on it

Strategic intent becomes an operating system when each line measure carries a decision, an owner, a feasible record and a guardrail.

  • 3.1Strategic outcomes determine what not to measure
  • 3.2Six families prevent one dimension from dominating
  • 3.3The line receives measures it can influence
  • 3.4One owner protects definition and action
Reading time
24 min
Exhibits
5
Sections
7
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