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Chapter 08 of 14 · Part III · Draft web edition

A printed panel creates value only after accurate assembly

Connect approved artwork and patterns to material yield, cutting, sewing and accepted output.

Sections
7
Exhibits
4
Minutes
25
Sources
23
EX 33 · Post-cure cooling & relaxation: from 7 to 9 (illustrative shift hours from job release)

The cloth is woven from this chapter's 4 exhibits: each weft is one exhibit's own data, normalised; each warp group is a section. The probe reads the exhibit's own value where it crosses. Procedural visualisation, not a measurement.

The chapter as a draft: 7 sections, 2 exhibit wefts, one shuttle.

Lead exhibit · 33ScheduleillustrativeThe delivery promise must reserve every constrained stage
051015Prepress lock & RIP queueNozzle check & strike-off gateDigital print run (Batch A)Thermal dryer warm-up & curePost-cure cooling & relaxationMarker verify, spread & cutBundle ticket & sewing assemblyFinal inspection & pack release

Read-outPrepress lock & RIP queue: from 0 to 1.5 (illustrative shift hours from job release)

Method and source

Illustrative finite-capacity schedule across printing, thermal fixation, cooling, cutting, sewing and inspection, informed by S15 and S17. Durations are illustrative planning blocks in hours, not measured GFT cycle times.

Unit: illustrative shift hours from job release. Status: illustrative. Sources: S15, S17. Illustrative figures are teaching examples, not measured factory results.

The chapter's warpBar: share of the reading · square: an exhibit

Section 8.0 · Opening · 1 min · no exhibit of its own · one movement Go to section ↓

Overture · 1 min

An approved print creates value in this order-triggered service only when the physical process converts it into an accepted garment. Digital printing can form part of a wider sequence that includes preparation, fixation, cutting and sewing, while on-demand manufacturing changes the production system rather than one machine alone.[S01][S03] GFT therefore proposes one tracked execution chain: every physical panel set carries its approved version identity from raster image processing to dispatch, and yield and throughput are measured in accepted garments rather than linear metres printed. This is a proposed operating design, not a report of an installed GFT line or a measured Cameroon result.

¶ 01 · 2 sources

S01S03

The execution problem begins after the physical release gate. Finished geometry must govern print placement, marker planning must account for order completion as well as fabric area, thermal curing and cooling need capacity, and every cut bundle must remain traceable to its released specification.[S09][S15][S0801][S0802] This chapter extends the greenfield operating concept and shop-floor measurement discipline in GFT's Cameroon textile programme. It defines controls for those handoffs, for short-run changeovers, quality holds and recovery-work accounting. Chapter 9 then prices the complete order. A fast printer cannot, by itself, establish the delivery or economic performance of that chain.[S03][S17]

8.13 min · 1 sub-steps · read with a related exhibit

Print placement must respect the finished geometry

Related · chapter 026 paragraphs step it

Related exhibit 05 · chapter 02Decision mapillustrativeEach service commits stock at a different stage
High validation / shallow makeFull custom manufactureStocked-blank decorationStandard-size roll cut-and-sewUpstream process depth committed →Specification and validation burden →Case A: Light blank D…Case A: Dark blank DT…Case B: Institutional…Case C: Roll-printed…Case C: Made-to-measu…

Read-outCase A: Light blank DTG/DTF: Upstream process depth committed 2, Specification and validation burden 2.2. Quadrant: Stocked-blank decoration

Method and source

Illustrative GFT classification informed by S01, S03 and S15. Horizontal axis scores upstream process depth committed per order (0 = finished blank in stock, 10 = pattern, fabric print and full garment assembly). Vertical axis scores specification and validation burden per order (0 = print file only, 10 = body measurement, pattern adaptation and physical fit verification).

Unit: illustrative index (0 to 10). Status: illustrative. Sources: S01, S03, S15. Illustrative figures are teaching examples, not measured factory results.

Read this exhibit in its chapter ↗
8.1 · Introduction · paragraph 1 of 6

An engineered print or cut-and-sew motif needs a controlled translation from the approved three-dimensional garment to flat production pieces. Computational pattern-making research treats that translation as a constrained geometric problem rather than a simple image export.[S09] On the shop floor, printing, heat fixation, cutting and seam construction remain distinct physical events.[S01][S15] GFT's proposed release check therefore compares artwork contours, pattern contours and the measured material state before rasterisation. Any shrinkage, relaxation or construction compensation must come from the qualified production route, not an operator's universal adjustment. Dimensional-change specimens and garments require defined preparation, marking and measurement, which makes an unrecorded scaling decision especially difficult to diagnose.[S27]

8.2 Five physical allowances govern the released marker

Translating a three-dimensional garment into manufacturable two-dimensional pattern pieces is a constrained geometric problem involving darts, seam symmetry, grain and surface distortion.[S09] When printed artwork is locked to those pieces, the released marker governs both ink deposition and knife paths.[S01][S09] In GFT's proposed release discipline, five physical allowances must be embedded in the released marker geometry:

  • Seam and hem allowances: Every panel contour must carry the exact stitch-class allowance from the technical pack, with print bleed extending beyond the cut line into the seam allowance so sewing variation never exposes unprinted white ground along a join.[S09][S32]
  • Directional shrinkage and relaxation compensation: Cellulosic fabrics change dimension during pretreatment drying, thermal fixation, steaming or washing, and pressing.[S01][S27] Prepress scaling factors must be applied separately along warp and weft using measured dimensional-change records prepared under standard specimen-marking protocols.[S12][S27]
  • Grainline and mechanical orientation locks: Fabric tensile, shear and bending behaviour differs between warp, weft and diagonal directions, altering how a cut garment hangs and fits.[S05] Rotating a piece off-grain to save fabric area changes both mechanical drape and the angle of the weave beneath the ink.[S05][S09]
  • Cross-seam motif registration anchors: Where a graphic crosses a placket, yoke, sleeve head or side seam, the marker must place match notches and visual registration ticks outside the finished garment boundary but inside the cut perimeter.[S09][S32]
  • Panel orientation and nap rules: Single-directional prints, asymmetric panels and directional fabrics must be locked against flipping or rotation in nesting software unless the technical pack authorises rotation.[S09][S0801]

Checking model and pattern information before cutting is essential because incompatible formats and manual edits introduce dimensional errors between design and cutting.[S0801] Parametric pattern frameworks confirm that valid sewing patterns are required for both simulation and fabrication.[S32] When an apparel maker modifies a pattern contour after the physical release gate in Chapter 7, the print placement file and cut marker must be regenerated from that versioned pattern geometry rather than patched in graphics software.[S07][S32]

For direct-to-garment and direct-to-film decoration on pre-sewn blanks, finished geometry imposes a different but equally strict boundary.[S15] Because the garment is already assembled, seams, collars, zippers and pocket welts create elevation steps on the loading platen.[S15][S30] Platen selection, garment tensioning during loading, and the clearance between the printhead or heat press and adjacent seams must be specified in the job ticket so that placement remains repeatable across every size in an order cohort.[S15][S30]

8.33 min · 1 sub-steps · 1 exhibit

Markers should minimise total order cost

Exhibit 326 paragraphs step it

Exhibit 32RegisterillustrativeMarker yield is only part of material yield
Material accounting stage
Gross fabric issued from store
Boundary definition
Total roll length times full nominal width issued to batch
Illustrative area (sq m)
100
Share of gross issue (%)
100

Read-outMaterial accounting stage: Gross fabric issued from store. Boundary definition: Total roll length times full nominal width issued to batch. Illustrative area (sq m): 100. Share of gross issue (%): 100

Open the full register (9 rows)
Gross fabric issued from storeTotal roll length times full nominal width issued to batch100100
Selvedge, edge margin and leader lossUnprintable selvedge guards plus threading and tension leaders-6-6
Net printable and cuttable areaUsable substrate area entering the print marker9494
Inter-panel marker gap and bleed wasteUnprinted interstitial area plus cut-off print bleed around panels-14.1-14.1
Setup, purge and calibration swatchesNozzle checks, colour control bars and thermal strike-off strips-2.5-2.5
Cut-room and print-defect panel rejectsPanels quarantined for misregistration, staining or knife error-3.4-3.4
Remake fabric consumed for sewing recoveryReplacement panels printed and cut to replace assembly damages-2-2
Usable remnant returned to stockVerified full-width unprinted roll end returned to inventory-4-4
Net fabric delivered in accepted garmentsPattern area inside finished garments passing final release6868
Method and source

Illustrative GFT material-accounting ledger for printed cut-and-sew production, informed by S03 and S0802. Numeric values are an illustrative 100 square metre batch reconciliation to demonstrate the method, not measured factory results.

Unit: square metres per batch. Status: illustrative. Sources: S03, S0802. Illustrative figures are teaching examples, not measured factory results.

8.3 · Introduction · paragraph 1 of 6

Geometric marker efficiency, the ratio of nested pattern-piece area to the marker area, is necessary but incomplete for an order-triggered service. Marker-planning research in a mass-customisation context instead minimises the total cost related to the number of markers and excess units while also considering the sewing schedule.[S0802] GFT draws a bounded inference for printed cut-and-sew: a denser layout can be commercially worse if it violates print orientation, delays a confirmed order, creates excess units or leaves incomplete panel sets waiting for remakes. On-demand production makes those order and schedule consequences part of the same decision, rather than treating printing as an isolated equipment upgrade.[S03]

The opened marker-planning study couples marker and excess-unit cost with a sewing-schedule constraint; it does not supply a Cameroon saving or prove that one nesting rule fits every workshop.[S0802] In GFT's proposed digital roll-to-roll route, each printed panel is committed to a specific artwork and size before cutting. Interleaving several customer orders can therefore couple their curing, cutting and sorting events. A defect on one required panel holds that order's set until a replacement is printed, cured and recut, while companion panels need an identified physical hold. The control objective is not to prohibit mixed markers. It is to price that dependency before choosing the layout.[S01][S03]

8.4 Gross fabric issue differs from nested marker area

GFT proposes that a local on-demand apparel operation evaluate marker strategies using complete order-level material and handling economics rather than software nesting percentage alone.[S03][S0802] Exhibit 32 sets out the physical material components that reconcile gross fabric issued from the store to the net fabric area delivered inside accepted garments.

As Exhibit 32 illustrates, a marker that reports an apparent nesting efficiency of 85 percent on usable printable width (79.9 square metres of nested pattern and bleed out of 94.0 square metres of net printable area in the illustrative table) can deliver only 68.0 percent of gross issued fabric into accepted customer garments once selvedge guards, threading leaders, print purge bars, defective panels and sewing remakes are deducted.[S03][S0802] This illustrative table cannot establish what yield a Cameroon facility will achieve; rather, it defines the accounting ledger that the pilot must populate on every roll so that procurement and quoting teams do not mistake software nesting percentages for real material consumption.[S0802]

GFT proposes testing contiguous order zones against interleaved markers rather than assuming either layout wins. A contiguous zone places all panels for one garment or buyer size set within a bounded longitudinal strip. The pilot should record nested area, stripping minutes, identification errors, partial-set holds, remake delay and accepted-order completion for both methods. Contiguous zoning may simplify identification and release, while interleaving may use area more efficiently. The evidence required is the total cost per accepted order and the delivery outcome, not a claimed universal yield advantage.[S03][S0802]

8.52 min · 1 sub-steps · 1 exhibit

Curing and cooling need capacity reservations

Thermal fixation is a production stage, not a zero-duration postscript to ink deposition. Pigment fixation can use dry heat, while direct-to-garment guidance identifies a final heat-curing stage and, for specified white-ink or polyester cases, pretreatment.[S01][S15][S30] Direct-to-film adds adhesive and transfer handling.[S15] GFT's proposed route sheet therefore gives pretreatment drying, ink curing and heat-press transfer their own workstation identities, qualified settings and output records. Equipment-specific documentation and physical tests must establish those settings; this chapter does not prescribe a generic temperature or dwell time.

International environmental, health and safety guidelines identify heat consumption as particularly significant in drying, curing and wet treatments.[S17] That supports metering thermal work, but does not establish the warm-up behaviour or capacity of a particular machine. The pilot must time warm-up, stabilisation, active processing, idle holding and shutdown on the selected equipment. It must also test the actual printed and cured article under the agreed laundering and rubbing routes, because visual approval cannot substitute for those separate durability decisions.[S10][S11][S12]

¶ 02 · 4 sources

S17S10S11S12

8.6 Finite-capacity scheduling must include thermal dwell and conditioning

8.6

GFT requires the factory scheduling system to treat pretreatment drying, ink curing and post-cure cooling as explicit finite-capacity workstations rather than zero-duration transitions.[S15][S17] Exhibit 33 illustrates how a batch cohort moves across prepress, printing, thermal curing, cooling, cutting, sewing and release inspection when every stage's setup, processing and stabilisation window is reserved on a finite timeline.

¶ 03 · 2 sourcesExhibit 33

S15S17

Exhibit 33 is a capacity hypothesis to test, not an equipment performance claim. Its warm-up and stabilisation block must be replaced by observations from the selected dryer, calender or press. Its post-cure hold makes the material state explicit before cutting: GFT proposes defining the required cooling or relaxation condition during qualification, then measuring the actual panel dimensions under that condition rather than assuming an immediate cut is safe.[S27] Finally, the customer promise spans the whole illustrative sequence from prepress lock to final pack release (16 illustrative shift hours), not only the 3 illustrative hours assigned to ink deposition. The schedule cannot establish real durations; it shows why the pilot must reserve every constrained stage before promising delivery.[S03][S15][S17]

¶ 04 · 4 sources

not only the 3 illustrative hours assigned to ink depositionillustrative

Exhibit 33

S27S03S15S17

To prevent thermal bottlenecks and under-cured shipments, GFT's proposed shop-floor log records five parameters for every curing batch:

¶ 05
  1. Equipment identifier and pre-heat verification: Confirmation that the conveyor dryer, calender or heat press reached the recipe's target operating state before the batch entered.[S15][S17]
  2. Specified recipe settings: The approved temperature, belt speed or dwell time, and pressure or airflow setting linked to the substrate lot and ink chemistry in the material passport, following the equipment manufacturer's technical documentation rather than generic temperatures.[S01][S15]
  3. Batch entry and exit timestamps: Actual clock times showing total thermal operating hours versus active curing hours, providing the denominator needed to allocate thermal energy in Chapter 9 and Chapter 11.[S17]
  4. Cooling and relaxation hold completion: Sign-off that the printed roll or blank completed its specified post-cure cooling and relaxation interval before spreading, cutting or folding.[S27]
  5. Ventilation and operator safety check: Confirmation that local exhaust ventilation and heat guards were active during pretreatment spraying, powder curing and heat pressing, in line with industrial health and safety management guidance.[S17][S18]
List · 5 sources

S15S17S01S27S18

Interlude · the cloth half-woven

4 exhibits carry this chapter's argument.

Woven: sections 8.0 to 8.5Still to weave: 8.7 to 8.11

  1. 32Marker yield is only part of material yieldRegister
  2. 33The delivery promise must reserve every constrained stageSchedule
  3. 34The order identifier must survive the physical processLayers
  4. 35Recovery work consumes the apparent short-run marginReconciliation
Hover or focus an exhibit to light its weft; select it to jump to it.

8.72 min · 4 paragraphs · 1 exhibit

A cut set must remain linked to the approved version

When a cutting knife separates a printed roll into fronts, backs, sleeves, collars and facings, the physical continuity of the roll disappears.[S0801] In a bulk factory making identical white shirts, medium left sleeves from the same dye lot are interchangeable. In an on-demand factory, where consecutive orders on one roll carry different customer motifs, colourways, body dimensions or pattern versions, losing panel identity turns sewing into a sorting puzzle.[S03][S32] Sewing a sleeve from an earlier pattern revision onto a bodice from the released revision creates a hybrid defect that may go unnoticed until final measurement or customer return.[S09][S0801]

Responsible supply-chain management requires each enterprise to identify its priority risk areas based on its specific circumstances.[S29] In GFT's Cameroon textile programme performance-management system design, shop-floor control starts with source capture at the workstation using stable identifiers. Extending that discipline to printed cut-and-sew and blank decoration requires an unbroken chain of custody from the approved technical pack down to each bundle and finished garment.[S01][S09] (The broader enterprise traceability standard from cotton bale to retail label belongs to the companion GFT paper on garment traceability; here we specify the internal execution identifiers required to assemble the right order.) Exhibit 34 shows the four-layer architecture binding approvals, digital job tickets, physical carriers and performance logs.

¶ 02 · 3 sourcesExhibit 34

S29S01S09

Exhibit 34LayersillustrativeThe order identifier must survive the physical process
Approval contractOrder ID & buyer scopePattern version & sizeArtwork & profile IDQualified fabric lot IDPrepress & RIP jobMarker layout IDShrinkage scale vectorPrinted selvedge barcodeCut-contour file hashPhysical carrierRoll leader tagCut-panel waste-edge codeBundle traveller ticketGarment care-label QRShop-floor event logPrint & cure sign-offCut-set reconciliationSewing cell check-inFinal release & pack scan

Read-outApproval contract: Order ID & buyer scope, Pattern version & size, Artwork & profile ID, Qualified fabric lot ID

Method and source

Illustrative GFT execution architecture linking technical release, prepress, physical bundle tracking and shop-floor logging, informed by S01, S09, S0801 and GFT programme design.

Unit: control layers from approval to dispatch. Status: illustrative. Sources: S01, S09, S0801. Illustrative figures are teaching examples, not measured factory results.

As Exhibit 34 demonstrates, software identifiers in the approval contract and raster image processor (Order ID, Pattern version, Marker layout ID) survive on the shop floor only when physically printed or attached to the material at every transition.[S01][S0801] Because Exhibit 34 is an illustrative system design rather than a report of an installed GFT factory system, its purpose is to specify the physical handoffs a pilot workshop must implement before taking multi-style orders:

¶ 01 · 2 sourcesExhibit 34

S01S0801

  • Roll-edge metadata strips: During roll printing, the raster image processor prints a compact job header in the selvedge margin alongside each marker zone, recording order identifier, pattern revision, artwork revision, colour profile and curing recipe.[S01][S21]
  • Seam-allowance panel micro-labels: For cut-and-sew engineered prints, the printer deposits an alphanumeric piece code (order suffix, size and panel code) inside the seam allowance or trim tab of each piece so every panel remains identifiable after stripping until sewn into the seam.[S09][S0801]
  • Bundle traveller tickets: At the stripping table, the cutter verifies that all required pieces for a garment or single-size bundle are present and undamaged before attaching a bundle traveller ticket.[S0801] No partial bundle may enter sewing; if one panel in a five-piece shirt is rejected at cutting, the remaining four pieces go to a remake-hold rack with an exception tag while the replacement piece is queued.[S0802]
  • Work-in-process kit verification before sewing: Before assembly begins, the line feeder checks the bundle traveller ticket against the trim kit (threads, buttons, interlinings, size labels and care labels) so a printed cotton panel is never sewn with the wrong thread shade or labelled with an incorrect care instruction.[S12][S0801]

8.83 min · 1 sub-steps · read with a related exhibit

Changeovers can dominate a short-run line

On-demand manufacturing changes the production system, but it does not remove the operator minutes, machine availability or setup material consumed between jobs.[S03] GFT's short-run planning hypothesis is that ungrouped changes can dominate available time when orders are small and varied. The workshop must test that hypothesis with timestamps rather than assume it. This matters for responsible planning as well as cost: OECD guidance identifies inefficient production planning and poor purchasing practices among common factors associated with excessive working hours.[S28]

8.9 Six changeover classes and scheduled maintenance must be logged separately

8.9

A short-run printed apparel line experiences six classes of changeover, plus mandatory maintenance that continues even when order queues are light:

¶ 02
  1. Substrate and roll changeovers: Unloading a woven poplin roll and threading a knitted jersey roll requires cleaning lint, adjusting feed tension and platen gap, loading the colour profile and running a leader strip.[S01][S21]
  2. Platen and fixture changeovers: On direct-to-garment and heat-press lines, switching from adult crew-neck shirts to youth sizes, polo plackets or fleece requires swapping platens, adjusting head height and verifying press pressure.[S15][S30]
  3. Ink-route and pretreatment changeovers: Changing between light garments (colour ink only) and dark garments (white underbase plus pretreatment) introduces spray setup, dryer temperature changes and white-ink verification.[S15][S30]
  4. Cutting-table and knife setups: Loading a new cut contour file, adjusting vacuum hold-down or spreading tension, and replacing blades or underlay paper consume cutting-room availability between markers.[S0801]
  5. Sewing-machine thread, needle and attachment changes: Re-threading lockstitch and overlock machines for a new colourway, swapping needle sizes between shirting and piqué, or changing folder attachments interrupts rhythm and requires test seams on scrap cloth before sewing printed panels.[S03][S28]
  6. Scheduled daily and periodic maintenance: Digital printing systems require model-specific maintenance regardless of how few garments are printed on a shift; for example, one commercial DTG user guide instructs operators to shake white ink supply units once a day and colour ink supply units once a month, alongside nozzle checks and cleaning cycles.[S31]
  7. Worked example

    Consider an illustrative single-shift comparison for a small printed cut-and-sew cell staffed for 480 minutes (8 hours, aligned with a standard 40-hour five-day working week).[R16] Suppose the cell processes 12 small customer orders of 5 garments each (60 garments total) during the shift, and daily printer maintenance, nozzle verification and thermal warm-up consume 45 illustrative minutes.[S17][S31]

    In Case A (Unbatched first-in, first-out sequence), orders arrive in random substrate, shade and thread-colour order. Each of the 12 orders triggers a full substrate, platen, thread and test-seam changeover averaging 18 illustrative minutes across printing, cutting and sewing, consuming 12 times 18 equals 216 minutes. Subtracting 45 minutes of maintenance and 216 minutes of changeovers from 480 staffed minutes leaves 219 productive minutes (45.6 percent of shift time). At an illustrative net print and assembly pace of 6.0 minutes per garment once running, the cell completes only 36 garments during the regular shift, leaving 24 garments (4 orders) unfinished or forcing overtime.[S28]

    In Case B (Family-batched sequence within a fixed shift window), the planner groups the same 12 orders into 2 substrate and thread-colour families without breaching promised delivery dates.[S0802] The cell performs 2 major family changeovers of 18 minutes (36 minutes) and 10 minor digital-artwork switches of 3 minutes (30 minutes), reducing total changeover time from 216 minutes to 66 minutes. After 45 minutes of maintenance and 66 minutes of changeovers, 369 productive minutes remain (76.9 percent of shift time), allowing all 60 garments (60 times 6.0 equals 360 minutes) to finish within the regular 480-minute shift with 9 minutes of buffer. Every numeral in this case is an illustrative model calculation demonstrating why changeover logging and family sequencing matter, not an observed GFT factory result.

While general sewing-line balancing, standard-minute values and overall equipment effectiveness methods belong to the companion GFT paper on line balancing and overall equipment effectiveness, an on-demand workshop must log setup duration and setup scrap by changeover category on every shift so quoting models in Chapter 9 allocate real changeover burdens to small orders.[S28][S31]

¶ 01 · 2 sources

S28S31

8.102 min · 5 paragraphs · read with a related exhibit

Quality holds must stop downstream duplication

In a connected print-to-sew workflow, an undetected nonconformity can consume material and labour at every subsequent station. A print or cure problem can reach cutting and assembly before final inspection exposes it. GFT's control response is to stop the affected scope at the earliest useful physical boundary, identify the suspect panels and prevent further work until disposition. This is a proposed loss-containment rule, not a measured defect-rate claim. The cutting-room study supports checking model information before cutting, while print-process control requires defined references and tolerances.[S0801][S21]

GFT's proposed quality-hold protocol establishes four stop gates between print release and packing:

¶ 02
  • Gate 1: Pre-run nozzle and control-bar verification. Before printing customer panels or blanks, the operator prints a nozzle check and colorimetric control strip, verifying that no nozzles are deflected and measured colour values lie within tolerance for that profile and substrate.[S14][S21]
  • Gate 2: Post-cure first-article physical hold. On any multi-unit order or new material lot, the first printed and cured panel or garment is held before the batch is released to cutting or sewing.[S15][S21] The reviewer checks motif dimensions against the technical pack, inspects for scorching or powder residue, and performs dry and wet rubbing checks on a sacrificial test patch where specified.[S11][S27]
  • Gate 3: Post-cut bundle audit. Before a bundle leaves the stripping table, the cutter checks cut-edge accuracy against notches, verifies that registration marks align across mating panels, and confirms that all pieces carry matching order and revision identifiers.[S09][S0801]
  • Gate 4: First-sewn garment construction and appearance check. On a batch order, the first assembled garment is checked for seam pucker, stitch density, motif continuity across seams, and key body measurements before the cell completes the remaining bundles.[S07][S09]

When any gate fails, the operator attaches a quarantine tag and logs the defect under one of two classes: reworkable process deviation (such as an unpressed seam, loose thread, or curable dwell shortfall that the ink specification permits re-passing) or non-recoverable reject (such as nozzle banding, colour mismatch, miscut geometry, oil staining or needle-cut damage).[S02][S11] Non-recoverable panels go immediately into a locked quarantine bin so they cannot be bundled into a shipment.[S0801]

¶ 03 · 3 sources

S02S11S0801

Note · 3 sources

S10S12S11

8.113 min · 7 paragraphs · 1 exhibit

Good throughput must include recovery work

Step 1 of 7Gross order revenue

Exhibit 35 · illustrativeRecovery work consumes the apparent short-run margin

0200400600500Gross orderrevenue−190Base fabric,ink & trims−110Direct print,cure & sew200Apparent ordermargin−35Marker &leader waste−28Changeover &purge loss−42In-processpanel remakes−25Sewing rework& overtime−30Customerreturn & refu…40Net retainedcontribution0200400600Gross order revenue500Base fabric,…−190Direct print,…−110Apparent order…200Marker &…−35Changeover &…−28In-process…−42Sewing rework…−25Customer…−30Net retained…40

Gross order revenue

Gross order revenue: total 500. Running total 500 thousand XAF per illustrative order cohort · illustrative

A factory that measures printing performance by square metres jetted per hour and sewing performance by gross pieces stitched per shift creates a blind spot: reprinting rejected panels and remaking defective garments look like productive…

Direct print, cure & sew

Direct print, cure & sew: removes 110. Running total 200 thousand XAF per illustrative order cohort · illustrative

Apparent order margin

Apparent order margin: total 200. Running total 200 thousand XAF per illustrative order cohort · illustrative

Changeover & purge loss

Changeover & purge loss: removes 28. Running total 137 thousand XAF per illustrative order cohort · illustrative

In-process panel remakes

In-process panel remakes: removes 42. Running total 95 thousand XAF per illustrative order cohort · illustrative

Customer return & refund

Customer return & refund: removes 30. Running total 40 thousand XAF per illustrative order cohort · illustrative

Net retained contribution

Net retained contribution: total 40. Running total 40 thousand XAF per illustrative order cohort · illustrative

Method and source · Exhibit 35

Illustrative order-cohort contribution bridge in thousand CFA francs (XAF), constructed by GFT to demonstrate recovery-cost accounting (S03, S28). All monetary values are illustrative model inputs, not observed GFT revenues or local price quotes.

Unit: thousand XAF per illustrative order cohort. Status: illustrative. Sources: S03, S28. Illustrative figures are teaching examples, not measured factory results.

8.11 · the bodyExhibit 35 above; its figures are illustrative where marked.

A factory that measures printing performance by square metres jetted per hour and sewing performance by gross pieces stitched per shift creates a blind spot: reprinting rejected panels and remaking defective garments look like productive activity on machine counters while destroying profitability and consuming thermal and operator capacity.[S03][S17] In GFT's Cameroon textile programme performance-management system design, production performance is anchored on accepted output reconciled against inputs at a shared boundary.

For an on-demand print-and-assemble line, GFT proposes two linked reconciliations using seven principal counters. The counters answer different questions, so they are not mutually exclusive destinations:

¶ 02
  1. Ordered quantity ($Q_{\text{ordered}}$): Confirmed, funded garments promised under the accepted specification, excluding cancellations recorded before release.[S03]
  2. Started quantity ($Q_{\text{started}}$): All initial and replacement garment sets released into printing and cutting.[S03][S0802]
  3. Rejected quantity ($Q_{\text{rejected}}$): Started units scrapped at printing, curing, cutting, sewing or inspection because the defined disposition does not permit recovery.[S0801]
  4. Reworked quantity ($Q_{\text{reworked}}$): Units that failed an internal check, received logged corrective labour and subsequently passed release inspection. This is an event attribute, not an additional physical unit.
  5. Remade quantity ($Q_{\text{remade}}$): Replacement panels or garments produced to recover an order. These replacements are already included in started quantity and must not be added to it a second time.
  6. Shipped quantity ($Q_{\text{shipped}}$): Released garments transferred to the delivery route, with dispatch recorded separately from buyer acceptance.
  7. Accepted and retained quantity ($Q_{\text{accepted}}$): Shipped garments retained by the buyer after the defined return, refund and dispute window.[S03]
List · 3 sources

S03S0802S0801

The internal balance is started = rejected + open work + ready to ship + shipped. Open work includes held and in-process sets; ready to ship means released but not yet dispatched. The fulfilment balance is shipped = accepted + returned + pending acceptance. Pending acceptance includes goods still in transit or inside the agreed review window. GFT recommends freezing these definitions by order cohort and observation time. Otherwise a remade unit can inflate output, a rework event can be counted as a new garment, or a dispatch scan can masquerade as buyer acceptance.

¶ 03

Tracking those counters alongside the labour minutes, ink millilitres, fabric square metres and dryer hours consumed by rework and remakes makes recovery work visible in the execution ledger.[S17][S28] Exhibit 35 shows an illustrative order-cohort contribution waterfall in CFA francs (XAF), demonstrating how setup losses, panel remakes, sewing rework and returns erode the apparent order margin when recovery costs are accounted for rather than buried in overhead.

¶ 04 · 2 sourcesExhibit 35

S17S28

In Exhibit 35, an order cohort with 500 thousand XAF of illustrative gross revenue and 300 thousand XAF of nominal material, ink and direct processing cost appears on a naive quote sheet to generate 200 thousand XAF (40 percent) of apparent order margin. Once 35 thousand XAF of unrecovered marker and leader waste, 28 thousand XAF of changeover and purge losses, 42 thousand XAF of emergency panel remakes, 25 thousand XAF of sewing rework and overtime, and 30 thousand XAF of customer returns are deducted, the net retained contribution drops to 40 thousand XAF (8 percent of gross revenue), before fixed software, depreciation and administrative overheads are covered. Every monetary input is illustrative; the arithmetic is 500 - 190 - 110 - 35 - 28 - 42 - 25 - 30 = 40 thousand XAF, not a local quotation or financial forecast.[S03][S28]

¶ 05 · 2 sources

an order cohort with 500 thousand XAF of illustrative gross revenue and 300 thousand…illustrative

Exhibit 35

S03S28

The arithmetic in Exhibit 35 is an illustrative accounting example rather than an empirical forecast or investment calculation. A remake can consume additional fabric, pretreatment, ink, thermal processing, cutting time and sewing labour while occupying capacity promised to another order.[S01][S03][S17] GFT's practical conclusion is narrower than a claim of guaranteed profitability: measure first-pass execution and its recovery burden before scaling the service. Chapter 9 builds on this ledger to price the complete order and test whether retained orders cover the defined fixed and variable costs of digital sampling and on-demand production.[S03]

¶ 06 · 3 sourcesExhibit 35

S01S03S17

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23 sources · 175 citation marks on this pageMost cited: S03, 21 times

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WageIndicator

Inherited evidence R16

Informal share of employment about 90 percent; standard 40-hour week, 48-hour maximum, overtime at 1.2 times.

Publication date unrecorded. Inherited source-text record. The original publication has not been independently reopened for this web edition.

Chapter source notes

S01 Society for Imaging Science and Technology. 2021.

S03 The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal. 2025-12-31.

S09 arXiv, Pietroni and co-authors. 2022.

S15 Epson United Kingdom. 2026.

S0801 Technical University of Liberec. 2025-04-07.

S0802 Office of Academic Resources, Chulalongkorn University. 2016.

S17 International Finance Corporation, World Bank Group. 2007-04-30.

S27 International Organization for Standardization. 2011.

S32 arXiv, Korosteleva and Sorkine-Hornung. 2023-06-06.

S12 International Organization for Standardization. 2021.

S05 Kaunas University of Technology, Materials Science. 2011-07-04.

S07 3DBODY.TECH conference proceedings. 2020.

S21 Fogra Research Institute for Media Technologies. 2026.

S30 Epson America. 2026.

S10 International Organization for Standardization. 2010.

S11 International Organization for Standardization. 2016.

S18 International Finance Corporation. 2014.

S29 Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development. 2026-02-26.

S28 Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development. 2018.

S31 Epson America. 2026.

R16 WageIndicator. Publication date unrecorded; inherited source-text check.

S14 International Organization for Standardization. 2017.

S02 Wiley, Coloration Technology. 2024-01-29.

Keep the thread · chapter 08 of 14

Chapter 09 picks up the thread.

Move the shuttle along the rack to preview any chapter: its sections, exhibits and reading time. Draft web edition. This research is not investment, legal or tax advice; illustrative models are not measured factory results.

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09Part III: Prove the service and the economics

On-demand wins only when retained orders cover the complete cost

Compare physical sampling and digital sampling, then compare production routes under matched quality and service conditions.

  • 9.1Sampling economics need a matched style cohort
  • 9.4Digital sampling carries fixed and variable costs
  • 9.6Order contribution must reconcile refunds and remakes
  • 9.9Crossover volume depends on comparable acceptance yield
Reading time
25 min
Exhibits
4
Sections
7
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