Rework is more than an extra wage entry. In the model's operating logic, a repaired garment returns to an already balanced sequence, occupies handling space and competes with new work for attention. The direct calculation should nevertheless begin with what can be observed: verified repair minutes, the people paid to perform them, and any additional material or machine time. A broad claim that every repaired garment doubles total factory cost would be neither necessary nor defensible.
A jacket-line Six Sigma study found broken threads and puckering together represented 23 percent of 16 defect types. The finding supports concentrating corrective work on a Pareto subset rather than spreading effort evenly. It does not mean that a Cameroonian line will have the same defect mix or that removing those classes will remove the same share of cost. The local model needs class-specific minutes and dispositions.[S25]
For direct rework labour, GFT uses B_r = Q x s x p x t x w. Here s is the exclusive share of production entering the rework-eligible cohort after fabric-recovery units have been removed, p is the proportion of that rework avoided through earlier control and verified corrective action, t is direct repair minutes per avoided rework unit, and w is labour cost per minute. This p is not the camera's detection increment. Detection may initiate the correction, but a mechanic's adjustment, changed work method or supplier action must actually prevent recurrence. All central-case rates are illustrative.
The wage conversion is explicit. At XAF 60,000 a month and a 40-hour week averaged over 52 weeks and 12 months, the illustrative unburdened wage is XAF 5.77 a minute, calculated as 60,000 / (40 x 52 / 12 x 60). R16 supplies the standard-week context and S1002 the private-sector wage floor. Actual payroll cost per productive minute should replace this figure, including paid non-production time where the accounting boundary requires it.[R16][S1002]
The saved minutes should not automatically receive a second benefit as increased output. If demand, upstream supply or another station limits production, released sewing time may not become saleable capacity. The base case therefore includes direct avoided repair labour but zero additional contribution margin from higher output. A separate capacity case can be added only when the production plan identifies unsatisfied demand and the true bottleneck. This prevents one repaired garment from generating both a full labour saving and an invented margin on a garment the factory cannot sell.
Seconds require a different ledger because downgrade loss is not the same as repair time. GFT defines B_s = Q x a x g x L, where a is the exclusive second-quality cohort after the previous buckets, g is the reduction associated with verified control, and L is the avoidable loss per downgraded unit. L should be the realised first-quality value minus second-quality recovery, less any selling and handling costs that differ between the routes. It is not the full selling price and not the fabric cost by default.
The illustrative dumbbell in Exhibit 47 makes the asymmetry visible. Detection capture changes by 25 percentage points in the scenario, while rework-free completion changes by only 1.5 points because the assumed exclusive rework cohort and avoided share are much smaller. The chart does not claim that better detection caused a measured yield improvement. It shows why a large model metric and a modest economic effect can both be true.
An Indonesian printed T-shirt case recorded 107 defective units among 1,380 produced, equivalent to 7.75 percent by direct division. It also linked those defects to material waste and found points outside statistical control limits. The case demonstrates why defect prevalence, process stability and waste should be measured together. Its 7.75 percent is not transferred into this chapter's base case; it informs the upper end of the sensitivity range only as an external observed example.[S26]
Capacity context deserves the same restraint. The inherited register reports CICAM plant utilisation between 10.83 and 48.9 percent in a July 2023 account and an underutilisation cost of about CFAF 2 billion in 2020. Those figures describe another organisation and several possible causes of underuse. They do not establish a recoverable amount for vision or a utilisation baseline for a new garment plant. The lesson is to protect effective capacity with measured first-pass quality, not to attribute every idle minute to defects.[R12]
A Central Java garment study provides a further boundary. Digital quality control and production automation jointly explained 64.5 percent of product-quality variance in its structural model, with reported associations of 0.262 and 0.639 respectively. These questionnaire-based results support integrated quality and production management. They do not price a defect, prove causation for another site or justify a fixed percentage increase in Overall Equipment Effectiveness.[S24]
The practical COPQ ledger should therefore have separate rows for fabric recovery, direct rework labour, extra rework material, downgrade loss, inspection review, false-alarm disposition and capacity effects. Each row needs a unit, an owner and a counterfactual. A garment appears in one primary savings row, while any genuinely separate additional cost is shown as a component rather than another full-garment benefit. That structure is more useful than a single Cost of Poor Quality percentage whose denominator changes whenever production ramps.