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Chapter 05 of 14 · Part II · Draft web edition

Blending and conversion determine what can still be traced

Each production step must preserve enough input-output linkage to support the claim carried by its outputs.

Sections
6
Exhibits
4
Minutes
25
Sources
16
EX 20 · Spinning laydown (1,000 kg) to Combed yarn lot (820 kg): 820 kg (illustrative mass)

The cloth is woven from this chapter's 4 exhibits: each weft is one exhibit's own data, normalised; each warp group is a section. The probe reads the exhibit's own value where it crosses. Procedural visualisation, not a measurement.

The chapter as a draft: 6 sections, 3 exhibit wefts, one shuttle.

Lead exhibit · 20Material flowillustrativeA batch's possible origins follow its input graph
Documented source A (60…Documented source B (40…Spinning laydown (1,000…Combed yarn lot (820 kg)Recoverable noil (130 k…Process loss (50 kg)

Read-outDocumented source A (600 kg) to Spinning laydown (1,000 kg): 600 kg (illustrative mass)

Method and source

Illustrative transformation mass balance: 600 kg documented source A and 400 kg documented source B enter a 1,000 kg spinning laydown and allocate to 820 kg combed yarn, 130 kg recoverable comber noil and 50 kg process loss. Quantities are hypothetical teaching inputs under S10 transformation semantics and S02 claim boundaries, not empirical yield claims or GFT factory measurements.

Unit: kg (illustrative mass). Status: illustrative. Sources: S02, S10. Illustrative figures are teaching examples, not measured factory results.

The chapter's warpBar: share of the reading · square: an exhibit

Section 5.0 · Opening · 1 min · no exhibit of its own · one movement Go to section ↓

Overture · 1 min

A cotton garment can carry only the provenance and custody claims supported by the transformations that produced it. Green Future Tech Limited (GFT), Hong Kong SAR, therefore proposes a directed, bipartite genealogy graph rather than a linear chain of handovers. Identified material lots and recorded activities form separate nodes. Edges show which inputs each activity consumed and which outputs it generated. The operating rule is conservative: for each claimed attribute, an output inherits its admissible input set, while undocumented or ineligible inputs restrict the claims that depend on that attribute.[S0501][S10][S0503]

¶ 01 · 3 sources

S0501S10S0503

This chapter specifies that architecture for GFT's Cameroon textile programme. It follows observable batch boundaries rather than assuming item-level fibre identity, and distinguishes conversion, splitting, grouping, subcontracting, rework and missing evidence. The schemas, identifiers and calculations below are design specifications and illustrative cases for a proposed pilot and the educational trace-a-garment tool. They do not prove a running GFT factory, supplier certification, legal conformity or realised operating performance. Nothing here is investment, legal or tax advice.[S28]

¶ 02 · 1 source

S28

5.13 min · 2 sub-steps · read with a related exhibit

A genealogy graph must follow the production grain

Related · chapter 035 paragraphs step it

Related exhibit 15 · chapter 03Decision mapillustrativeEvidence granularity limits geographic precision
Overstatement: Reject or narrowclaimAdmissible: Specific claimsupportedUnverified: Hold as conventionalAdmissible: Broad claim supportedUpstream evidence granularity and control →Proposed geographic claim specificity →Single-farm claim on…Village claim on trad…Catchment claim on un…Group-pool claim on s…Single-group claim on…Regional claim on ver…Country claim on mult…Country claim on segr…No origin claim on un…Quarantined lot with…

Read-outSingle-farm claim on pooled gin pad: Upstream evidence granularity and control 3.5, Proposed geographic claim specificity 9.2. Quadrant: Overstatement: Reject or narrow claim

Method and source

Illustrative GFT decision matrix mapping upstream evidence completeness (x-axis) against proposed geographic claim precision (y-axis), grounded in ISO 22095 (S01), ISEAL (S02) and AbTF (S06) custody boundaries. Coordinates are conceptual categories, not empirical scores.

Unit: illustrative index (0 to 10). Status: illustrative. Sources: S01, S02, S06. Illustrative figures are teaching examples, not measured factory results.

Read this exhibit in its chapter ↗
5.1 · Introduction · paragraph 1 of 5

5.2 Identifiers must attach to observable physical batch boundaries

A useful genealogy graph is acyclic and bipartite. Material nodes identify bales, yarn lots, rolls, bundles and garment batches. Activity nodes record conversions, splits and groupings. Directed input and output edges connect the two. The World Wide Web Consortium (W3C) PROV Data Model supplies the general distinction between entities, activities and responsible agents, while GS1's Electronic Product Code Information Services (EPCIS) Release 2.0 supplies visibility-event semantics for what changed, when, where and under which business step.[S0501][S10][S11] The factory-specific design decision is the grain at which those relations can be observed.

The grain should be the smallest lot whose inputs and outputs operators can actually observe. Serialising each garment cannot resolve which farm supplied each fibre, while pooling all output into one monthly lot cannot isolate a roll. GFT therefore proposes batch or campaign identifiers for bulk conversion, roll identifiers for fabric, and bundle or batch identifiers for cutting and sewing. Item serials are optional where they answer a separate service or claim need. These are pilot design choices, not claims that a supplier already captures them.[S10][S0503]

Production stagePhysical unit observedIllustrative identifierEPCIS 2.0 event classRequired upstream parent linksClaim survival boundary
Spinning laydownLint bales at blowroomLOT-LAY-2026-001 (illustrative)TransformationEventAll ginnery bale IDs in laydown (inputEPCList or inputQuantityList)Union of possible origins; each attribute retains its own custody model.[S02][S10][S0503]
Ring or rotor spinningYarn lot doffed by shiftLOT-YRN-2026-014 (illustrative)TransformationEventActive laydown ID, roving reference and recorded noil or waste outputsBounded by laydown input set; single-bale identity is not separable.[S07][S10]
Knitting or weavingGreige fabric rollROL-GRG-2026-108 (illustrative)TransformationEventWarp beam lot ID and weft or creel yarn lot IDs consumedMulti-yarn intersection; differing warp and weft status must be declared.[S03][S10]
Wet processingDye batch and finished rollBAT-DYE-2026-022 and ROL-FIN-2026-108A (illustrative)TransformationEventGreige roll IDs loaded to vessel; split suffix assigned if cutPreserves fibre origin only if vessel segregation and custody hold.[S05][S06]
Cutting roomCutting lay and bundlesLAY-CUT-2026-055 and BND-SEW-2026-055-01 (illustrative)TransformationEventAll finished roll IDs spread in lay, plus splice and remnant recordsUnless ply separation holds, every bundle inherits the lay's roll set.[S02][S10]
Sewing and packingGarment batch and cartonGAR-BAT-2026-310 and CTN-SHP-2026-880 (illustrative)TransformationEvent and AggregationEventCut bundle IDs, separate non-cotton trim records and carton IDCotton claim covers cotton component only; carton grouping is reversible.[S10][S34]

5.3 System design must remain separate from assumed supplier readiness

A schema does not establish supplier readiness. An upstream partner may provide paper packing lists, campaign references or aggregate weights rather than the proposed identifiers. The receiving graph must record that actual granularity instead of inventing intermediate lots. If the finest admissible upstream unit is a campaign-level bale group, the campaign becomes the receiving node and downstream claims inherit its geographic and temporal boundary. A pilot must test whether each participant can capture, correct and export these links; no current supplier capability is assumed.[S01][S02][S03]

5.43 min · 2 sub-steps · 1 exhibit

Spinning often replaces a single origin with an input set

Related · chapter 129 paragraphs step it

Related exhibit 51 · chapter 12ReconciliationillustrativeRecurring cost includes the human control work
010,00020,00030,0003,600Softwareand host…+2,400Labelsand media+6,200Capturelabour+3,800Reconciliationwork+4,500Assuranceand audit+1,500Partnersupport22,000Totalrecurrin…

Read-outSoftware and hosting: total 3,600. Running total 3,600 illustrative annual cost (thousand XAF)

Method and source

Illustrative bottom-up annual operating model for a single bounded pilot chain: software subscription and hosting (3,600), physical labels and consumables (2,400), point-of-work capture labour (6,200), monthly reconciliation and exception review (3,800), scheme and transaction assurance (4,500) and partner support and recovery tests (1,500), summing to 22,000 thousand XAF per year. All quantities are hypothetical teaching inputs, not vendor quotes or GFT operating costs.

Unit: illustrative annual cost (thousand XAF). Status: illustrative. Sources: S03, S06, S27. Illustrative figures are teaching examples, not measured factory results.

Read this exhibit in its chapter ↗
5.4 · Introduction · paragraph 1 of 9

5.5 Bale laydown transforms discrete deliveries into a pooled yarn lot

In the proposed model, bale laydown is a pooling boundary. Where several bale lots feed one mixed yarn lot, a single-bale parent pointer no longer describes the observable output. The record must list every bale or bale group that could enter the shared run, including substitutions and undocumented inputs. Opening, carding, drawing, combing and spinning can then be represented as one campaign or as separate activities, depending on the boundaries at which operators actually record consumption and production.[S02][S10]

EPCIS represents the conversion as a TransformationEvent. Identified objects belong in inputEPCList and outputEPCList; measured class quantities belong in inputQuantityList and outputQuantityList. Recoverable material and recorded losses need their own outputs or linked quantity records on a compatible measurement basis.[S10][S03] The UN Transparency Protocol (UNTP) Digital Traceability Events page offers a work-in-progress credential mapping for such events, suitable here only as a pilot comparison.[S30] Once the model boundary is a mixed lot, a downstream scan can retrieve the recorded input set but cannot create a fibre-level observation that was never captured.

5.6 An input set bounds provenance without preserving single-farm identity

A mixed laydown therefore produces a bounded input set, not a single origin pointer. Whether that set supports a claim depends on the attribute and its governing custody model. UNTP's pilot guidance states the key distinction directly: "A chain of custody model applies to a claimed attribute, not to a facility or a process." Country of growth, scheme eligibility and producer-group identity can consequently have different outcomes on the same run.[S02][S0503]

Identity Preservation keeps a defined source separate. Segregation permits eligible material from several sources to combine while excluding non-eligible material. Thus, an illustrative laydown of bales from three documented Cameroonian ginneries could retain a country and scheme-class claim if every input and control satisfies the applicable rules, but not a single-ginnery claim.[S02][S07] Version labels matter: the Aid by Trade Foundation's June 2025 standard uses Hard Identity Preserved (HIP), while the current Cotton made in Africa webpage uses Segregation and says the underlying separation requirements are unchanged.[S06][S07]

Controlled Blending tracks a known fixed proportion. Mass Balance reconciles eligible input and claimed output volumes administratively rather than preserving their physical separation.[S02][S0503] An illustrative laydown mixing documented Cameroonian and Benin cotton cannot support an unqualified single-country physical claim. Its record should retain the multi-origin input set and any supportable percentage statement, while a scheme claim follows that scheme's edition, model and allocation rules rather than an automatic factory-wide downgrade.[S02][S06][S0503]

GFT keeps three operations separate when evaluating that input set. The union of possible origins answers where material in the batch may have come from. The intersection of shared attributes answers what can be said without qualification about every input. A mass-weighted allocation answers a different question again and is valid only where the selected custody model and compatible quantities permit it.[S02][S0503]

For example, two documented producer groups in one country have a union containing both groups but an intersection that can still contain the shared country attribute. If one group's country evidence is missing, the country intersection becomes unknown rather than defaulting to the documented group. Scheme eligibility follows its own rule set and is not inferred from that geographic intersection. This is why the graph stores an attribute vector rather than collapsing provenance into one score or one country field.

Exhibit 20 illustrates a hypothetical 1,000 kg spinning laydown combining 600 kg of lint from documented Cameroon Source A with 400 kg of lint from documented Cameroon Source B, converting the blended fibre into 820 kg of combed yarn, 130 kg of recoverable comber noil and 50 kg of process loss.[S02][S10]

In Exhibit 20, the illustrative 820 kg yarn lot and 130 kg recoverable noil link to the whole 1,000 kg laydown, not exclusively to Source A or Source B. A genealogy query returns {Source A: 60 percent, Source B: 40 percent} by recorded input mass.[S10] It cannot establish the fibre ratio inside a single 200-gramme shirt, because no fibre-level measurement is in the model. The illustrative 82 percent yarn yield, 13 percent noil share and 5 percent loss demonstrate conservation only. Actual campaign yields require compatible input, output, by-product and loss measurements, which Chapter 6 reconciles.[S03][S06]

5.72 min · 2 sub-steps · 1 exhibit

Fabric and wet processing add custody and process boundaries

Step 1 of 7Lint bale laydown (inputEPCList)

Exhibit 21 · illustrativeA split and a conversion are different events

Lint balelaydown(inputEPCList)SpinningTransformationEventIdentifiedyarn cones(outputEPCList)PalletAggregationEvent(ADD/DELETE)KnittingTransformationEventGreigefabric roll(parent ID)SubcontracteddyeTransformationEventRoll-splitTransformationEvent(child IDs)
Lint bale laydown (inputEPCList)Spinning TransformationEventIdentified yarn cones (outputEPCList)Pallet AggregationEvent (ADD/DELETE)Knitting TransformationEventGreige fabric roll (parent ID)Subcontracted dye TransformationEventRoll-split TransformationEvent (childIDs)

Lint bale laydown (inputEPCList)

Lint bale laydown (inputEPCList). Starting point. Leads to Spinning TransformationEvent (consume bales). · illustrative

Spinning TransformationEvent

Spinning TransformationEvent. From Lint bale laydown (inputEPCList) (consume bales). Leads to Identified yarn cones (outputEPCList) (new lot ID). · illustrative

Identified yarn cones (outputEPCList)

Identified yarn cones (outputEPCList). From Spinning TransformationEvent (new lot ID). Leads to Pallet AggregationEvent (ADD/DELETE) (reversible pack). · illustrative

Knitting TransformationEvent

Knitting TransformationEvent. From Pallet AggregationEvent (ADD/DELETE) (keep cone IDs). Leads to Greige fabric roll (parent ID) (new roll ID). · illustrative

Greige fabric roll (parent ID)

Greige fabric roll (parent ID). From Knitting TransformationEvent (new roll ID). Leads to Subcontracted dye TransformationEvent (custody loop). · illustrative

Subcontracted dye TransformationEvent

Subcontracted dye TransformationEvent. From Greige fabric roll (parent ID) (custody loop). Leads to Roll-split TransformationEvent (child IDs) (retire parent). · illustrative

Roll-split TransformationEvent (child IDs)

Roll-split TransformationEvent (child IDs). From Subcontracted dye TransformationEvent (retire parent). End point. · illustrative

Method and source · Exhibit 21

Illustrative event sequence distinguishing irreversible material conversion (EPCIS TransformationEvent), reversible logistics grouping (AggregationEvent) and roll splitting or subcontracted wet finishing. Normative event semantics follow GS1 EPCIS 2.0 (S10); credential-wrapped event mapping follows the pre-production UNTP Digital Traceability Events specification (S30).

Unit: . Status: illustrative. Sources: S10, S30. Illustrative figures are teaching examples, not measured factory results.

5.7 · the bodyExhibit 21 above; its figures are illustrative where marked.

5.8 Knitting, weaving and dyeing require explicit parent-child roll linkage

Fabric formation adds another convergence boundary. In an illustrative weaving run, warp Lot LOT-YRN-2026-014 and weft Lot LOT-YRN-2026-015 both become parents of greige roll ROL-GRG-2026-108. The transformation record must also capture creel substitutions that change the possible input set. Textile Exchange's Content Claim Standard and the Global Organic Textile Standard provide scheme-specific reasons to preserve processing and transaction evidence, but they do not remove the need to define the physical batch grain.[S03][S05][S10]

¶ 01 · 3 sources

S03S05S10

Wet processing adds shared baths, external custody and physical splits to the model. For example, an illustrative 100-metre parent roll ROL-GRG-2026-108 becomes a 70-metre roll 108A, a 25-metre roll 108B and a 5-metre rejected piece 108C. The proposed transformation event retires the parent for further allocation and issues three child identifiers, with length and mass retained on their respective measurement bases.[S03][S10] Reusing the parent barcode for all three pieces would allow the same material identity to enter more than one later allocation.[S06][S10]

¶ 02 · 3 sources

an illustrative 100-metre parent roll ROL-GRG-2026-108 becomes a 70-metre roll 108Aillustrative

S03S10S06

5.9 Subcontracted wet processing and recipe logs must stay distinct from material genealogy

5.9

Subcontracted wet processing must remain explicit in the same graph. The proposed sequence pairs sender and receiver shipping observations with the subcontractor's transformation record at its own location, followed by the return handover. The June 2025 Aid by Trade Foundation standard and Textile Exchange's CCS make outsourcing, marking, transport evidence and volume control important scheme-specific review points.[S03][S06][S10][S11] If the processor or its records fall outside the admissible scope, GFT would withhold the affected scheme claim and restrict any origin statement to the evidence that remains valid; the gap is not proof that the material's declared origin was false.

¶ 03 · 4 sources

S03S06S10S11

Material genealogy must also remain distinct from recipe and resource accounting. Greige rolls are substrate inputs; bath conditions, chemical lots, water and energy belong to process and impact records with their own methods. Companion paper wp06 treats those resource questions. Linking the records allows an analyst to ask which process acted on which roll without pretending that a dyestuff or a kilowatt-hour is a cotton-origin parent.[S05][S10][S28]

¶ 04 · 3 sources

S05S10S28

Exhibit 21 maps the event grammar separating irreversible material conversions, roll splits, reversible logistics groupings and subcontracted loops across mid-chain stages.[S10][S30]

¶ 05 · 2 sourcesExhibit 21

S10S30

Exhibit 21 separates reversible grouping from material identity change. An EPCIS AggregationEvent with action: ADD places identified children under a parentID; a later DELETE can release the same child identifiers.[S10] In the proposed model, conversion and roll splitting instead consume the recorded parent and generate new outputs through a TransformationEvent. UNTP's Digital Traceability Events page offers a credential wrapper for comparison, but GFT treats it strictly as a pre-production pilot mapping because the opened specification is work in progress.[S30]

¶ 06 · 2 sourcesExhibit 21

S10S30

The release routine should query the graph in both directions. A backward query from a garment batch returns every contributing lot and its evidence state. A forward query from a suspect bale or roll returns every output requiring review. Orphan outputs, repeated consumption of a retired parent, cycles created by unversioned rework, unresolved corrections and incompatible quantity bases are proposed blocking conditions. Packing or unpacking a pallet must not change the underlying genealogy, while a split must carry the parent's input set to each child. These are acceptance tests for the future trace-a-garment implementation, not tests already passed by GFT.[S10][S0502]

¶ 07 · 2 sources

S10S0502

Interlude · the cloth half-woven

4 exhibits carry this chapter's argument.

Woven: sections 5.0 to 5.7Still to weave: 5.10 to 5.16

  1. 20A batch's possible origins follow its input graphMaterial flow
  2. 21A split and a conversion are different eventsFlow
  3. 22The narrowest admissible claim survives the processDecision map
  4. 23Missing links restrict output claimsRegister
Hover or focus an exhibit to light its weft; select it to jump to it.

5.104 min · 2 sub-steps · 1 exhibit

Cutting and sewing require defensible allocation rules

Step 1 of 6Single-coop isolated lot

Exhibit 22 · illustrativeThe narrowest admissible claim survives the process

Unverified specificity (reject)Defensible physical claimsGeneric or quarantined lotsVolume-reconciled claims onlyInput link completeness (0 to 10) →Surviving claim specificity (0 to 10) →Single-coop isolated…Multi-ginnery Cameroo…Multi-country African…Fixed-ratio controlle…Site mass-balance all…Lay with one unverifi…
Unverified specificity(reject)Defensible physical claimsGeneric or quarantinedlotsVolume-reconciled claimsonlyInput link completeness (0 to 10) →Surviving claim specificity (0 to 10) →Single-coop isolated…Multi-ginnery Cameroo…Multi-country African…Fixed-ratio controlle…Site mass-balance all…Lay with one unverifi…

Single-coop isolated lot

Single-coop isolated lot: Input link completeness (0 to 10) 9, Surviving claim specificity (0 to 10) 9. Quadrant: Defensible physical claims · illustrative

Multi-ginnery Cameroon segregated blend

Multi-ginnery Cameroon segregated blend: Input link completeness (0 to 10) 9, Surviving claim specificity (0 to 10) 7. Quadrant: Defensible physical claims · illustrative

Multi-country African segregated blend

Multi-country African segregated blend: Input link completeness (0 to 10) 8, Surviving claim specificity (0 to 10) 6. Quadrant: Defensible physical claims · illustrative

Fixed-ratio controlled blend

Fixed-ratio controlled blend: Input link completeness (0 to 10) 8, Surviving claim specificity (0 to 10) 4. Quadrant: Volume-reconciled claims only · illustrative

Site mass-balance allocation

Site mass-balance allocation: Input link completeness (0 to 10) 7, Surviving claim specificity (0 to 10) 2. Quadrant: Volume-reconciled claims only · illustrative

Lay with one unverified roll

Lay with one unverified roll: Input link completeness (0 to 10) 2, Surviving claim specificity (0 to 10) 1. Quadrant: Generic or quarantined lots · illustrative

The method behind it: Worked example: Multi-roll cutting lay and claim survival.

Method and source · Exhibit 22

Illustrative analytical positioning of six hypothetical blending and conversion cases across input evidence completeness (x-axis, 0 to 10) and surviving geographic or scheme claim specificity (y-axis, 0 to 10), derived from S02, S03 and S07 rules. Coordinates are qualitative analytical placements for comparison, not empirical measurements.

Unit: illustrative index (0 to 10). Status: illustrative. Sources: S02, S03, S07. Illustrative figures are teaching examples, not measured factory results.

5.10 · the bodyExhibit 22 above; its figures are illustrative where marked.

5.11 Multi-roll cutting lays pool the genealogy of every spread roll

A cutting lay becomes a pooling boundary whenever plies from several rolls can enter shared bundles. GFT's default allocation rule is conservative: unless roll-separated plies and bundles remain physically and digitally linked, the transformation record connects every spread roll to every garment batch from that lay. If separation is demonstrated, the graph can use the narrower observed parent set. This is a proposed allocation rule using EPCIS transformation semantics, not an assertion that all cutting rooms operate identically.[S02][S10][S0501]

¶ 01 · 3 sources

S02S10S0501

5.12 Product claims must separate main cotton fabric from trims and customs origin

5.12

A cotton-origin statement about main fabric does not establish the origin of sewing thread, interlining, labels or buttons. GFT therefore gives non-cotton components their own material and supplier records rather than silently extending the cotton claim to the whole garment. Composition, provenance and customs origin remain separate propositions.[S18][S34]

¶ 02 · 2 sources

S18S34

Three claim boundaries must remain separate at the sewing and packing boundary:

¶ 03
  1. Fibre-origin and certified-cotton claims apply only to the specified cotton component ("Main body fabric: 100 percent cotton grown and spun in Cameroon"), provided the transformation graph preserves eligible custody across every parent roll in the cutting lay.[S02][S03]
  2. Fibre-composition labelling is governed in the European Union by Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011 on textile fibre names and related labelling and marking of fibre composition, which as the European Commission's sector overview (accessed on 30 October 2026) notes is distinct from geographic provenance and future Ecodesign Digital Product Passport fields.[S14][S34]
  3. Customs origin ("Made in Cameroon" for tariff and border declaration purposes) is determined by applicable rules of origin (tariff-shift or value-added criteria under World Trade Organization principles and trade agreements, analysed in wp08), which are legally distinct from where the raw cotton fibre grew.[S18]
List · 5 sources

S02S03S14S34S18

Exhibit 22 positions six illustrative scenarios according to input-link evidence completeness (horizontal axis) and surviving claim specificity (vertical axis).[S02][S03][S07]

¶ 04 · 3 sourcesExhibit 22

S02S03S07

Exhibit 22 makes the release logic visible. High specificity with weak input links is not admissible. Moving from an isolated producer-group lot to a documented multi-ginnery or multi-country blend reduces geographic specificity, but need not remove every supported claim. Controlled blending and mass balance support different percentage or administrative statements, while an unverified roll places the affected provenance claim on hold. The integer coordinates are illustrative visual positions, not measurements, assurance scores or scheme rankings.[S02][S03][S0503]

¶ 05 · 3 sourcesExhibit 22

S02S03S0503

5.132 min · 2 sub-steps · read with a related exhibit

Rework and recovered material cannot inherit every old claim

5.14 Double-claim prevention requires retiring consumed eligibility upon transformation

The proposed graph must handle returned partial cones, re-dyed rolls, repaired bundles and recovered cutting clips without treating them as one generic loop. Each pathway creates a different allocation question. If an output receives eligibility while the same eligibility remains available on its parent or a recovered stream, the factory could claim one eligible input twice.[S03][S06]

¶ 01 · 2 sources

S03S06

Section 7.3 of the Aid by Trade Foundation's June 2025 standard prohibits double claiming of transaction volumes. Section 7.2 states that this edition's downgrade from HIP to mass balance is irreversible.[S06] Textile Exchange describes verified tracking and volume reconciliation for certified content.[S03] GFT therefore separates returns to stock, in-process rework and by-product or waste recovery, each with its own parent links, quantities and claim-allocation rule.[S06][S10]

¶ 02 · 3 sources

S06S03S10

Transformation and rework accounting boundary

In GFT's proposed factory genealogy engine, every transformation and recovery loop must satisfy four formal state rules grounded in EPCIS 2.0 (S10), W3C PROV constraints (S0502) and scheme volume-reconciliation principles (S03, S06):[S03][S06][S10][S0502]

  1. Conservation at initial transformation: For any transformation event T_k consuming input mass M_in and producing primary output M_good, recoverable stream M_rec and unrecoverable loss M_loss, the physical balance must satisfy M_in = M_good + M_rec + M_loss on a compatible moisture basis.[S03][S10]
  2. Partition of eligible claim balance: Eligible claim quantity E_in entering T_k is allocated without reuse so E_good + E_rec + E_loss = E_in, with every term non-negative and with the scheme's conversion rules defining each quantity.[S03][S06] If all available eligibility is allocated to M_good, then E_rec = 0 unless the governing scheme expressly permits another allocation. Physical mass and claim eligibility remain separate accounts.
  3. Acyclic versioned rework nodes: Re-dyeing rejected roll ROL-FIN-2026-108A must not overwrite its history. The proposed activity consumes the old node and generates ROL-RWK-2026-108A-V2, with links to every additional roll loaded into the same rework batch. W3C PROV-CONSTRAINTS supplies the broader requirement for a consistent history, while the versioned-node pattern is GFT's implementation choice.[S10][S0502]
  4. Irreversible downgrade propagation: If a rework bath mixes a segregated Cameroon roll with a conventional or mass-balance roll in the same vessel, ROL-RWK-2026-108A-V2 permanently loses segregated status under S06.[S02][S06]

5.15 Provenance genealogy must remain distinct from recycled-content eligibility

5.15

Recovered noil and cutting clips raise two separate questions: what origin evidence their parent graph carries, and whether a particular standard accepts the stream as recycled content. The first is a genealogy question. The second requires the applicable circularity definition, facility scope and claim rules, which companion paper wp11 addresses. UNTP's work-in-progress event page and GS1's Core Business Vocabulary provide working terms for a pilot mapping, not recycled-content eligibility.[S11][S30]

¶ 01 · 2 sources

S11S30

In the illustrative cutting case, clips retain the lay's recorded origin distribution of 67.0 percent documented Cameroon, 13.0 percent documented Benin and 20.0 percent unverified West African cotton. Their initial transformation already records 37.5 kg as a separate output. A later recovery claim must not reuse eligibility already allocated to the garments, and it must not deduct the same physical mass a second time.[S03][S06] This separation keeps physical stock, provenance and recycled-content eligibility visible as related but distinct registers.

¶ 02 · 2 sources

clips retain the lay’s recorded origin distribution of 67.0 percent documented Cameroonillustrative

S03S06

5.162 min · 2 sub-steps · 1 exhibit

Unknown input links must propagate downstream

5.17 An output claim can never be more specific than its weakest input link

The decisive test of the architecture is an imperfect record: a replacement bale without a readable tag, an unlabelled yarn cone or an omitted roll scan. The graph must represent these as explicit exceptions rather than fill them with likely values.[S10][S0502]

¶ 01 · 2 sources

S10S0502

GFT's conservative propagation rule is a design choice informed by claim-specific custody models and consistent provenance histories: for each attribute, an output claim cannot be more specific than the admissible evidence shared by every input that could have entered its batch.[S02][S0502][S0503] An unknown origin parent therefore restricts dependent origin claims on every child. It does not automatically invalidate unrelated fields such as measured composition, and it does not prove that the declared origin was false.

¶ 02 · 3 sources

S02S0502S0503

Note · 4 sources

S02S03S10S0503

5.18 Reconstruction requires primary documents and EPCIS error declarations

5.18

A dangerous configuration lets a supervisor or enterprise system replace unknown with the usual supplier or predominant warehouse lot. That substitution turns missing evidence into an unsupported assertion and prevents a reviewer from distinguishing an observation from a software guess.[S02][S0502]

¶ 03 · 2 sources

S02S0502

Note · 5 sources

S10S0502S03S01S02

Reconstruction is permissible only where contemporaneous evidence establishes the physical event. In an illustrative omission, the spreading sheet, rack issue log and remnant weigh-back ticket all identify ROL-FIN-2026-102. If an earlier event exists but is wrong, EPCIS 2.0 provides an ErrorDeclaration with its reason and corrective event references. If no event was captured, the proposed system creates a late record that preserves actual event time and later recording time. Both paths retain the evidence and reviewer identity.[S03][S10] If the documents cannot establish which roll was spread, the unknown parent remains and the affected claim is narrowed or withheld.[S01][S06]

¶ 04 · 4 sources

S03S10S01S06

Exhibit 23 traces five exception scenarios from defect to passport disclosure.[S01][S02][S10]

¶ 05 · 3 sourcesExhibit 23

S01S02S10

Exhibit 23 shows why precise boundaries limit the scope of a hold. A recorded creel-change window can restrict an exception to the rolls produced in that window, while an unverified input to a shared laydown or cutting lay affects every dependent output. These rules supply adverse scenarios for trace-a-garment and the genealogy inputs for Chapter 6, where physical stock, process yield and claim ledgers are reconciled separately.[S02][S03][S10]

¶ 01 · 3 sourcesExhibit 23

S02S03S10

Check the record

The chapter keeps its sources within reach.

Every knot is a source this chapter cites; select one to read its record, or filter the register by grade. Publication dates and inherited-source limits stay explicit. Read the paper's full evidence summary.

16 sources · 174 citation marks on this pageMost cited: S10, 38 times

Grade AGrade BGrade CKnot size: citations on this page

All 16 records shown

c05-S01 · Grade A

International Organization for Standardization

ISO 22095:2020: Chain of custody, General terminology and models

This document is applicable to all materials and products.

2020. Register access date: 2026-10-30. Source provenance is supplied by the paper evidence register.

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S0501 World Wide Web Consortium. 2013-04-30.

S10 GS1. 2022.

S0503 UNECE / UN Transparency Protocol. 2026-10-30.

S28 UNECE / UN Transparency Protocol. 2026-10-30.

S11 GS1. 2022.

S02 ISEAL Alliance. 2025.

S07 Aid by Trade Foundation / Cotton made in Africa. 2026-10-30.

S03 Textile Exchange. 2026-10-30.

S05 Global Standards gGmbH. 2026-10-30.

S06 Aid by Trade Foundation. 2025.

S34 European Commission, DG GROW. 2026-10-30.

S0502 World Wide Web Consortium. 2013-04-30.

S01 International Organization for Standardization. 2020.

S30 UNECE / UN Transparency Protocol. 2026-10-30.

S18 World Trade Organization. 2026-10-30.

S14 European Commission, DG GROW. 2026-10-30.

Keep the thread · chapter 05 of 14

Chapter 06 picks up the thread.

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06Part II: Every transformation needs a record

Reconciliation prevents claims from outrunning material

Physical stock, processing yield and eligible claims need related but separate accounts.

  • 6.1A physical ledger needs an explicit boundary
  • 6.3Process yield is measured rather than imported from a benchmark
  • 6.6The claims ledger has its own eligibility rules
  • 6.9Duplicate allocation needs a control at the time of release
Reading time
24 min
Exhibits
4
Sections
6
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