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Chapter 07 of 14 · Part II · Draft web edition

The garment factory turns meters, minutes and good units into Scope 1 and 2

A factory can account precisely for its own operations only when utilities, output and allocation share the same time and line structure.

Sections
6
Exhibits
5
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Sources
31
EX 32 · Cradle-to-gate product: Scope 1 direct 1, Scope 2 purchased energy 1, Scope 3 upstream (Cat 1-8) 8, Scope 3 downstream (Cat 9-15) 0. Shown total 10 number of GHG Protocol inventory compartments

The cloth is woven from this chapter's 5 exhibits: each weft is one exhibit's own data, normalised; each warp group is a section. The probe reads the exhibit's own value where it crosses. Procedural visualisation, not a measurement.

The chapter as a draft: 6 sections, 2 exhibit wefts, one shuttle.

Lead exhibit · 32Stacked compositionsourcedA factory Scope 1 to 3 bridge maps all seventeen GHG Protocol compartments to product stages
05101520Factory gate (Scopes 1+2)Cradle-to-gate productFull corporate + value chain

Read-outFactory gate (Scopes 1+2): Scope 1 direct 1, Scope 2 purchased energy 1, Scope 3 upstream (Cat 1-8) 0, Scope 3 downstream (Cat 9-15) 0. Shown total 2 number of GHG Protocol inventory compartments

Method and source

Sourced structural mapping of the 17 GHG Protocol corporate inventory compartments: 1 Scope 1 direct group (S04), 1 Scope 2 purchased-energy group (S03) and 15 Scope 3 categories (8 upstream Categories 1 to 8 and 7 downstream Categories 9 to 15 in S02 and S23) across the three garment boundary views defined in S01.

Unit: number of GHG Protocol inventory compartments. Status: sourced. Sources: S01, S02, S03, S04, S23.

The chapter's warpBar: share of the reading · square: an exhibit

Section 7.0 · Opening · 1 min · no exhibit of its own · one movement Go to section ↓

The chapter cloth7 warp groups · one pick per paragraph

This paragraph previews 7.11 · Good garments are the operating denominator

A garment factory cannot control or credibly report its operational carbon footprint until its utility meters, fuel and refrigerant ledgers, sewing-line time logs and quality records share one time and production hierarchy.[S04][S20] In apparel life cycles, upstream fibre cultivation, spinning and wet processing often dominate product emissions, yet the cut, make and trim (CMT) factory is the boundary where fabric rolls, trims, thermal energy, power and labour converge into a saleable garment.[S08][S31] Recording power only on a monthly utility bill, diesel only in a financial ledger and output only as gross bundles shipped prevents a plant from isolating process waste or assigning carbon accurately to styles and orders.[S23][S0704] Green Future Tech Limited (GFT), in its three-part Cameroon textile programme prepared in January 2024 with sources refreshed in 2026, designed its factory performance-management and digital architecture so energy, water and waste per unit are captured alongside line output, availability and first-pass yield from the first shift.[R06][S20] Extending that discipline to carbon accounting turns meter readings, standard allowed minutes and accepted good units into an auditable Scope 1 and 2 inventory that feeds product footprints without double counting or omission.[S01][S04]

Corporate operational boundaries and product life cycle boundaries share the same activity records but apply different aggregation rules.[S01][S04] At the corporate level, the factory compiles direct greenhouse gas emissions from owned or controlled stationary combustion, mobile sources and fugitive refrigerant leaks into Scope 1, and indirect emissions from purchased electricity, steam, heat and cooling into Scope 2.[S03][S04] At the product level, those reconciled totals are partitioned across garment families, lines and orders using a causal allocation driver, and divided by accepted good garments rather than gross pieces started.[S23][S24] Purchased fabrics, trims, packaging and subcontracted washing or printing remain upstream inputs in Scope 3 and in the cradle-to-gate material modules of the product footprint, ensuring every kilogram of carbon dioxide equivalent (CO2e) is recorded once and mapped to the garments that caused it.[S01][S02][S23]

7.13 min · 2 sub-steps · read with a related exhibit

Scope 1 starts with the fuel and fugitive register

Related · chapter 027 paragraphs step it

Related exhibit 06 · chapter 02LayersillustrativeA chart of carbon accounts links sites, suppliers, products and factors
4. Reporting &bridgeCorporate Scopes 1 to 3 ledgerProduct footprint portfolioReconciliation bridge logBase-year recalculation audit3. Allocation &factorsConsolidation boundary ruleDirect, T&D and WTT splitCo-product allocation ruleLine utility driver engine2. Value-chainrecordsSupplier PACT cradle-to-gateGLEC multimodal freight logsBackground LCI proxy taggerUse and disposal scenarios1. Site activitycaptureBoiler and genset fuel logsSub-metered kWh and steamAccepted and scrap unit countsRefrigerant and waste ledgers

Read-out4. Reporting & bridge: Corporate Scopes 1 to 3 ledger, Product footprint portfolio, Reconciliation bridge log, Base-year recalculation audit

Method and source

Illustrative system architecture derived from GHG Protocol Corporate (S04), Scope 3 (S02, S23) and Product (S01) standards alongside US EPA Inventory Management Plan controls (S0202). Shows how one underlying activity record feeds both reporting views.

Unit: . Status: illustrative. Sources: S01, S02, S04, S23, S0202. Illustrative figures are teaching examples, not measured factory results.

Read this exhibit in its chapter ↗
7.1 · Introduction · paragraph 1 of 7

Direct greenhouse gas emissions in a garment factory begin with an asset register covering every piece of equipment owned or controlled by the reporting company within its organisational boundary.[S04][S0702] Under the GHG Protocol Corporate Standard and United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) guidance, organisational boundaries determine which entities and assets enter the Scope 1 and 2 account, whether consolidated by operational control, financial control or equity share.[S04][S0703] Scope 1 sources fall into three classes: stationary combustion units (steam boilers, oil heaters, ovens and backup diesel generators), mobile sources (owned trucks, forklifts and shuttle buses) and fugitive sources (chillers, split air conditioners, fire-suppression cylinders and wastewater channels).[S20][S0701][S0702] Engineers tag each burner, tank, vehicle and refrigerant circuit with an identifier linked to its cost centre.[S04][S0701]

7.2 Stationary combustion requires reconciled fuel stocks and metered thermal loads

Stationary combustion in a garment plant is driven by steam generation for pressing, fusing, pleat setting, washing and drying, plus standby diesel generation during outages.[S08][S0701] Boilers and generators burn diesel, heavy fuel oil, liquefied petroleum gas (LPG), natural gas or biomass, releasing carbon dioxide (CO2), methane (CH4) and nitrous oxide (N2O).[S0701] Carbon dioxide accounts for roughly 99 percent of fossil combustion CO2e, while methane and nitrous oxide vary with burner tuning and are quantified separately.[S0701][S0704] Where a boiler burns biomass such as cotton gin trash or wood chips, biogenic carbon dioxide is reported separately from fossil Scope 1 totals, while methane and nitrous oxide remain inside Scope 1 CO2e.[S04][S0701]

Activity data cannot rely on purchase invoices alone when fuel is stored in bulk tanks across periods.[S20][S0701] A diesel tank delivery in late December may be burned across January and February.[S0701] To align fuel use with monthly garment output, the factory reconciles deliveries with calibrated flow meters on each boiler and generator line, or applies a stock balance where combusted fuel equals opening stock plus deliveries minus closing stock and transfers.[S20][S0701] Each fuel stream is logged in its physical unit (litres, kilograms or cubic metres) with its calorific basis so the factor from the United Kingdom Department for Energy Security and Net Zero (DESNZ) or the International Energy Agency (IEA) matches the energy basis and gas coverage.[S14][S20] Scope 1 uses only the direct combustion factor; upstream fuel extraction, refining and transport belong in Scope 3 Category 3.[S20][S23][S0701]

7.3 Mobile combustion and fugitive refrigerants close the direct inventory

Owned or controlled mobile equipment forms the second pillar of Scope 1.[S04][S20] Forklifts, panel-transfer vans and owned delivery trucks burn road diesel, petrol or LPG under factory control.[S20][S0703] Activity data come from fuel logs or receipts tied to registration numbers and odometer readings, with distance factors used only when volume records are incomplete.[S20] Third-party freight sits in Scope 3 Category 4 or 9 rather than Scope 1.[S02][S23]

Fugitive emissions from refrigeration, air conditioning and fire suppression are often overlooked, yet high-global-warming-potential hydrofluorocarbons (HFCs) can form a material share of a tropical factory's Scope 1 footprint.[S11][S0702] EPA fugitive guidance stresses that materiality can only be established after a source is assessed through an initial estimate.[S0702] Factories in warm, humid regions such as Littoral or northern Cameroon rely on chillers or split air conditioners to control temperature and humidity in offices, CAD rooms, cutting halls and sewing floors.[R03][S0702]

Rather than relying on uncertain screening factors, GFT specifies a mass-balance refrigerant register.[S20][S0702] Every chiller, split unit and fire-suppression cylinder is logged with its refrigerant code and charge capacity.[S0702] Fugitive leakage equals opening storage stock, plus purchases and charge in new units, minus closing stock, retiring capacity and certified recovery.[S0702] Leaked mass is multiplied by its 100-year Global Warming Potential (GWP100) from the declared Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) Assessment Report, such as AR6 Working Group I Chapter 7, while regulated ozone-depleting substances (HCFCs) are tracked as memo items.[S04][S11][S20][S0702]

7.43 min · 3 sub-steps · 1 exhibit

Scope 2 follows purchased energy into each process

Step 1 of 4Intro

Related exhibit 51 · chapter 11LayerssourcedAn electricity evidence stack runs from meter to contractual instrument
Disclosure andproduct allocationDual Scope 2 corporate reportScope 3 Category 3 fuel and l…Accepted-garment allocation b…Contractual andfactor governanceEight Scope 2 quality criteri…Dated IEA location-based grid…Residual mix or supplier-spec…Boundary separationGeneration-only kWh factorTransmission and distribution…Well-to-tank upstream fuel fa…Physical capture andreconciliationSub-metered line and utility…Self-generated solar PV and e…Utility invoices and diesel t…

Read-outDisclosure and product allocation: Dual Scope 2 corporate report, Scope 3 Category 3 fuel and loss ledger, Accepted-garment allocation bridge

Method and source

Accounting architecture synthesised from GHG Protocol Scope 2 Guidance (S03), IEA Emissions Factors 2026 (S14), UK DESNZ conversion factors 2026 (S20) and Scope 3 calculation guidance (S23). Separates physical metering, grid generation factors, transmission and distribution losses, upstream fuel-cycle burdens and market-based contractual quality criteria.

Unit: . Status: sourced. Sources: S03, S14, S20, S23.

Read this exhibit in its chapter ↗
Related exhibit 02 · chapter 01Material flowillustrativeA reference shirt cannot acquire a footprint before its boundary is declared
Defined cotton shirtMaterials and manufactu…Shirt at factory gateUse and end-of-life sce…

Read-outDefined cotton shirt to Materials and manufacturing: 0.3 kg per defined cotton shirt reference flow

Method and source

Illustrative boundary model using the 250 g medium-size cotton shirt baseline in S31, expressed as 0.25 kg. Each link carries the same shirt-equivalent reference flow to preserve the denominator. This is not a physical mass balance and assigns no emissions. Losses, added materials, energy, freight, use and disposal require separate activity data and factors before calculation.

Unit: kg per defined cotton shirt reference flow. Status: illustrative. Sources: S31. Illustrative figures are teaching examples, not measured factory results.

Read this exhibit in its chapter ↗

7.4 · Introduction

Scope 2 captures indirect greenhouse gas emissions from generating purchased or acquired electricity, steam, heat and cooling consumed by the factory.

Exhibit 51, chapter 11: Disclosure and product allocation

7.5 · Facility boundary meters and internal sub-meters serve complementary functions

A common failure in factory energy accounting is confusing the boundary meter needed for corporate Scope 2 totals with the sub-metering needed for process management and garment allocation .

Exhibit 51, chapter 11: Disclosure and product allocation

7.6 · Dual reporting separates grid physical reality from contractual instruments

Under the GHG Protocol Scope 2 Guidance, a factory in a market offering contractual instruments (such as energy attribute certificates or power purchase agreements) must report Scope 2 using both the location-based and market-based methods.

Exhibit 51, chapter 11: Contractual and factor governance

7.7 · Self-generation and grid losses must sit in their proper compartments

Factory electricity accounting separates owned on-site generation, purchased grid power and transmission and distribution ( T&D ) losses.

Exhibit 02, chapter 01: Defined cotton shirt to Materials and manufacturing

7.4 · the bodyThe film above follows these sub-steps.

Scope 2 captures indirect greenhouse gas emissions from generating purchased or acquired electricity, steam, heat and cooling consumed by the factory.[S03][S0703] Although fuel combustion occurs at a power station or park boiler house outside the fence, those emissions result from the factory's energy demand and belong in its corporate inventory.[S03][S0703] Purchased electricity powers spreaders, CNC cutters, sewing machines, bar-tackers, embroidery heads, irons, vacuum tables, compressors, lighting, fans and servers.[S08][S20] Inside an industrial zone such as the planned Dibamba or Garoua hubs referenced in Cameroon announcements, a plant may also buy piped steam or chilled water or acquire power over a private wire.[R10][S03][S0704]

¶ 01 · 6 sources

Scope 2 captures indirect greenhouse gas emissions from generating purchased or acquired electricityS03, S0703

Related · Exhibit 50 · chapter 10

S03S0703S08S20R10S0704

7.5 Facility boundary meters and internal sub-meters serve complementary functions

7.5

A common failure in factory energy accounting is confusing the boundary meter needed for corporate Scope 2 totals with the sub-metering needed for process management and garment allocation.[S23][S0704] EPA guidance establishes that utility bills and main incoming revenue meters provide the best activity data for corporate Scope 2 totals, whereas relying solely on internal sub-meters risks omitting perimeter lighting, pumps, canteen loads or transformer losses.[S0704] Conversely, a single substation meter cannot show how many kilowatt-hours (kWh) were used by Line 1 versus cutting, pressing or compressed air.[S20][S23]

¶ 02 · 3 sources

…meter needed for corporate Scope 2 totals with the sub-metering needed for process management…S23, S0704

S23S0704S20

GFT resolves this with a two-tier metering topology.[S20][S0704] Tier 1 is the calibrated revenue meter at the incoming switchboard, reconciled monthly against utility bills to fix the facility Scope 2 total.[S0704] Tier 2 comprises digital sub-meters on each feeder: cutting and CAD, each sewing line busbar, washing and drying, steam pressing, compressed air, HVAC, and general site services.[S20][S23] At the close of every shift and month, Tier 2 sub-meters are reconciled against the Tier 1 boundary meter, with the small residual assigned to the shared site-services pool.[S23][S0704]

¶ 03 · 3 sources

reconciled monthly against utility bills to fix the facility Scope 2 totalS0704

S20S0704S23

7.6 Dual reporting separates grid physical reality from contractual instruments

7.6

Under the GHG Protocol Scope 2 Guidance, a factory in a market offering contractual instruments (such as energy attribute certificates or power purchase agreements) must report Scope 2 using both the location-based and market-based methods.[S03][S0704]

¶ 04 · 2 sources

Under the GHG Protocol Scope 2 GuidanceS03, S0704

S03S0704

The location-based method uses the average emissions intensity of the physical grid serving the site (or a dedicated generator factor over a direct line), drawn from dated sources such as IEA Emissions Factors 2026.[S14][S0704] In Cameroon, where IEA data record a 54 percent electrification rate and World Bank reporting highlights hydropower and solar additions alongside grid constraints, the location-based factor must be dated and refreshed annually.[S09][S14][S28] The market-based method reflects contractual instruments meeting GHG Protocol Scope 2 Quality Criteria, defaulting to the residual mix or grid factor where no qualifying instruments exist.[S03][S0704]

¶ 05 · 5 sources

where IEA data record a 54 percent electrification rate and World Bank reporting highlights…S09, S14, S28

S14S0704S09S28S03

7.7 Self-generation and grid losses must sit in their proper compartments

7.7

Factory electricity accounting separates owned on-site generation, purchased grid power and transmission and distribution (T&D) losses.[S14][S20][S0704] Many Central African factories combine the public grid, owned solar photovoltaics and owned diesel standby generators.[S15][S28] Fuel burned in owned diesel generators sits in Scope 1, and power from owned solar arrays consumed on site carries zero Scope 1 or 2 combustion emissions; neither may be added to Scope 2 purchased kilowatt-hours, and exported on-site power is not netted off Scope 1 fuel or Scope 2 purchases.[S03][S0704] Grid T&D losses and well-to-tank fuel emissions are separate fields in IEA and UK DESNZ tables and belong in Scope 3 Category 3.[S14][S20][S23]

¶ 06 · 7 sources

Fuel burned in owned diesel generators sits in Scope 1S03, S0704

S14S20S0704S15S28S03S23

To make these boundary rules unambiguous, Exhibit 31 maps the principal factory sources to their governing scopes, activity units and double-counting safeguards.[S02][S03][S04][S20]

¶ 07 · 4 sourcesExhibit 31

S02S03S04S20

As Exhibit 31 demonstrates, flow classification depends on asset ownership, transformation boundary and factor scope rather than convenience.[S04][S20] While Exhibit 31 sets the categorical rules, physical meter calibration and invoice completeness must still be verified during site audits.[S04][S0704]

¶ 08 · 3 sourcesExhibit 31

S04S20S0704

7.83 min · 2 sub-steps · 1 exhibit

Purchased inputs remain in the product account

A standalone cut, make and trim factory does not grow cotton, spin yarn, weave fabric or dye cloth within its walls.[S08][S31] It receives fabric rolls, threads, interlinings, labels, buttons, zippers, polybags and cartons from suppliers, assembles garments and ships the goods.[S08][S23] Because fibre production, spinning and wet processing dominate a garment's cradle-to-gate footprint, purchased materials and subcontracted processing stay in Scope 3 Category 1 for corporate reporting and in upstream material modules for product reporting, never inside factory Scope 1 or 2.[S02][S08][S23]

¶ 01 · 4 sources

never inside factory Scope 1 or 2S02, S08, S23

Related · Exhibit 05 · chapter 02

S08S31S23S02

7.9 Cradle-to-gate supplier records attach to the bill of materials

7.9

Under the GHG Protocol Product Standard, ISO 14067 and WBCSD PACT Version 3, cradle-to-gate emissions of purchased components travel with the bill of materials (BOM).[S01][S05][S10] Each input's embodied carbon equals gross mass purchased per accepted garment multiplied by its cradle-to-gate factor, which already contains the upstream mill's Scope 1 fuel, Scope 2 power, fibre burdens and inbound transport.[S23][S31]

¶ 02 · 5 sources

ISO 14067 and WBCSD PACT Version 3S01, S05, S10

S01S05S10S23S31

Two errors corrupt this boundary.[S23] Omission occurs when a garment plant publishes only its low Scope 1 and 2 sewing emissions per piece and calls that partial figure the garment footprint, omitting fabric and trims.[S01][S08][S31] Double counting occurs when an integrated group owning both a mill and a garment plant includes the mill's fuel and power in group Scope 1 and 2 and also counts internal fabric transfers in corporate Scope 3 Category 1.[S02][S04][S23] Within one corporate boundary, each owned site's fuel and power enter group Scope 1 and 2 once, while Scope 3 Category 1 records only externally purchased inputs; in the product account, every stage from field to garment is summed once.[S01][S04][S23]

¶ 03 · 6 sources

…publishes only its low Scope 1 and 2 sewing emissions per piece and calls…S01, S08, S31

S23S01S08S31S02S04

7.10 Cutting-room marker losses and outsourced stages require explicit mass reconciliation

7.10

Although fabric sits in Scope 3 Category 1, factory engineering governs how much upstream fabric carbon enters each garment.[S23][S31] In the 2026 T-shirt assessment by Forfora et al., cumulative cotton losses across the cradle-to-gate chain reach 31 percent, requiring 0.362 kilograms of raw cotton before losses to deliver a 0.250-kilogram shirt.[S31] Inside the garment plant, marker efficiency, remnants, splice losses and sewing rejects set the gross-to-net fabric ratio.[R29][S31]

¶ 04 · 3 sources

Although fabric sits in Scope 3 Category 1S23, S31

S23S31R29

If a factory cuts 100 kilograms of dyed fabric at an 82 percent yield, 82 kilograms leave in garments and 18 kilograms leave as offcuts.[S25][S31] Both the product footprint and corporate Scope 3 Category 1 include the full 100 kilograms of purchased fabric, while disposal of the 18 kilograms of offcuts is recorded in Scope 3 Category 5 using waste factors that exclude upstream production.[S02][S20][S23] When GFT's digital tools improve marker nesting or deploy automated defect inspection (where computer vision achieves above 90 percent accuracy across more than 40 defect types at up to 60 metres a minute versus 60 to 70 percent for manual inspection), the factory cuts Scope 3 fabric mass per good garment alongside Scope 1 and 2 energy.[R29][S23] Subcontracted printing, washing or embroidery is recorded in Scope 3 Category 1 using primary subcontractor data or a documented secondary factor.[S10][S23]

¶ 05 · 7 sources

If a factory cuts 100 kilograms of dyed fabric at an 82 percent yieldS25, S31

S25S31S02S20S23R29S10

To show how corporate Scopes 1, 2 and 3 align with product stages without omission or overlap, Exhibit 32 maps the 17 GHG Protocol inventory compartments across direct operations, purchased energy, upstream supply chain and downstream stages.[S01][S02][S03][S04]

¶ 06 · 4 sources

To show how corporate Scopes 1S01, S02, S03, S04

Exhibit 32

S01S02S03S04

As Exhibit 32 shows, a factory gate operational report covers 2 of the 17 GHG Protocol compartments (Scopes 1 and 2), a cradle-to-gate product record combines those 2 scopes with relevant inputs from the 8 upstream Scope 3 categories (Categories 1 to 8), and a full corporate and cradle-to-grave account spans all 17 compartments including the 7 downstream categories (Categories 9 to 15).[S01][S02][S03][S04] Because Exhibit 32 counts standard compartments rather than tonnes of CO2e, it establishes scope completeness rather than an empirical emission share.[S02][S23]

¶ 07 · 5 sources

Because Exhibit 32 counts standard compartments rather than tonnes of CO2eS02, S23

Exhibit 32

S01S02S03S04S23

Key figures from chapter 01 · Exhibit 01Key figuressourcedFive fields make a garment footprint intelligible
  • DeclaredBoundaryName included and excluded life cycle stages.
  • DefinedFunctional unitSpecify the garment, function and reference flow.
  • VersionedGases and GWPRecord gas coverage, metric source and time horizon.
  • TraceableActivity dataDistinguish meters, records, estimates and proxies.
  • DatedEmission factorsPreserve geography, period, unit and factor boundary.

Read-outBoundary: Declared. Name included and excluded life cycle stages.

Method and source

Sourced synthesis of full life cycle coverage in S01, the single climate impact category in S05, greenhouse gas metric assessment in S11, and activity data, emission factor and GWP disclosure in S23. The five fields are an organising device, not an additional reporting standard.

Unit: required accounting declarations. Status: sourced. Sources: S01, S05, S11, S23.

Read this exhibit in its chapter ↗

7.112 min · 2 sub-steps · 1 exhibit

Good garments are the operating denominator

Exhibit 33Status lampssourcedDaily capture joins carbon to the existing operating record across six shift field groups

Read-out · sourcedPurchased grid and direct-line electricity: kWh / shift. Main revenue meter plus feeder sub-meters by line and utility room (S20, S0704)

Method and source

Sourced from UK DESNZ and IEA activity-data requirements (S14, S20), GHG Protocol Scope 3 allocation guidance (S23), US EPA stationary, fugitive and electricity guidance (S0701, S0702, S0704) and GFT programme design.

Unit: daily operational data schema. Status: sourced. Sources: S14, S20, S23, S0701, S0702, S0704.

Once a factory has quantified its Scope 1 and Scope 2 emissions in kilograms of CO2e, it divides that total by a physical denominator to obtain an operational carbon intensity.[S08][S23] Watson and Wiedemann and Forfora et al. show that the functional unit (1 kilogram of textile, 1 garment, or 1 wear) changes how burdens are interpreted.[S26][S31] Inside the plant, three operational denominators must be separated: started units (cut bundles loaded to the line), gross finished units (units reaching the line end before rejection), and accepted good units (A-grade garments packed for shipment).[S23][S26]

¶ 01 · 4 sources

Once a factory has quantified its Scope 1 and Scope 2 emissions in kilograms of CO2eS08, S23

Related · Exhibit 60 · chapter 13

S08S23S26S31

7.12 Rework and rejects consume real energy and must be borne by accepted output

7.12

When a line starts 1,000 shirts during an illustrative shift, every bundle draws power and steam.[S20][S23] Suppose 880 shirts pass on the first pass (88 percent illustrative first-pass yield), 70 shirts fail for stitch or stain defects and are reworked before passing, and 50 shirts suffer irreparable defects and are scrapped.[R29][S23] Machines sewed and pressed 880 units once, 70 reworked units twice, and 50 rejected units that cannot be sold.[S23][S25]

¶ 02 · 4 sources

When a line starts 1,000 shirts during an illustrative shiftS20, S23 · illustrative

S20S23R29S25

Dividing shift Scope 1 and 2 emissions by 1,070 illustrative machine passes or 1,000 started units understates carbon intensity by spreading emissions onto defective work.[S23][S26] Under ISO 14040, ISO 14044 and the GHG Protocol Product Standard, unit-process burdens are normalised against the net reference flow of functional product leaving that gate, making accepted good units (950 shipped shirts in this illustrative shift) the only valid product denominator.[S01][S24][S25]

¶ 03 · 5 sources

Dividing shift Scope 1 and 2 emissions by 1,070 illustrative machine passes or 1,000…S23, S26 · illustrative

S23S26S01S24S25

Tracking carbon per started garment beside carbon per accepted good garment in GFT's dashboard quantifies the quality carbon penalty of the line.[S23][S25] When a factory suffers high defect rates or low utilisation (as in Cameroon's legacy sector, where a July 2023 report recorded CICAM utilisation at 33.7 percent at Garoua, 48.9 percent at CICAM 1 and 10.83 percent at CICAM 2, costing about CFAF 2 billion in 2020), baseload power for lighting, HVAC, air leaks and boiler standby heat runs while accepted output falls, raising Scope 1 and 2 CO2e per good garment.[R12][S20]

¶ 04 · 4 sources

where a July 2023 report recorded CICAM utilisation at 33.7 percent at GarouaR12, S20

S23S25R12S20

7.13 Daily operational capture embeds carbon into existing shift logs

7.13

To calculate carbon per good garment without parallel paperwork, GFT's Cameroon programme embeds utility and waste fields into the daily line and sustainability logs kept by supervisors and technicians.[R06][S20] At the close of every shift, the factory records six operational field groups, shown in Exhibit 33.[S20][S0701][S0704]

The six shift field groups in Exhibit 33 timestamp every kilowatt-hour, litre of fuel and kilogram of steam to the shift, line and order that consumed it.[S20][S23] While Exhibit 33 defines the shift capture schema, Phase 1 of GFT's roadmap records these six groups on structured digital forms backed by meter photographs before automated telemetry is installed.[S20][S23]

¶ 06 · 2 sources

Phase 1 of GFT’s roadmap records these six groups on structured digital forms backed…S20, S23

Exhibit 33

S20S23

7.146 min · 2 sub-steps · 2 exhibits

Shared utilities require a defensible allocation rule

Step 1 of 4Layer 1: Boundary Meters & Ledgers

Exhibit 34 · illustrativeA meter-to-line-to-garment allocation chain makes factory carbon traceable

Layer 1: Boundary Meters & LedgersMain utility kWh revenue meterBoiler & genset fuel flow met…Refrigerant cylinder mass bal…Layer 2: Cost-Centre Sub-MetersCutting & CAD feeder kWhSewing Line 1 to N busbar kWhSteam press & wash header met…Shared HVAC, air & site servi…Layer 3: Causal Allocation DriversDirect line shift timestampEarned Standard Allowed Minut…Gross cut mass & pressing dwe…Layer 4: Product Denominator &FootprintOrder & style carbon ledgerAccepted good units (A-grade)Rework & scrap carbon penalty…
Layer 1:Boundary Meter…Main utility kWh revenue meterBoiler & genset fuel flow met…Refrigerant cylinder mass bal…Layer 2:Cost-Centre Su…Cutting & CAD feeder kWhSewing Line 1 to N busbar kWhSteam press & wash header met…Shared HVAC, air & site servi…Layer 3: CausalAllocation Dri…Direct line shift timestampEarned Standard Allowed Minut…Gross cut mass & pressing dwe…Layer 4:Product Denomi…Order & style carbon ledgerAccepted good units (A-grade)Rework & scrap carbon penalty…

Layer 1: Boundary Meters & Ledgers

Layer 1: Boundary Meters & Ledgers: Main utility kWh revenue meter, Boiler & genset fuel flow meters, Refrigerant cylinder mass balance · illustrative

A garment factory rarely makes a single style all year.

Layer 2: Cost-Centre Sub-Meters

Layer 2: Cost-Centre Sub-Meters: Cutting & CAD feeder kWh, Sewing Line 1 to N busbar kWh, Steam press & wash header meters, Shared HVAC, air & site services · illustrative

Layer 3: Causal Allocation Drivers

Layer 3: Causal Allocation Drivers: Direct line shift timestamp, Earned Standard Allowed Minutes (SAM), Gross cut mass & pressing dwell time · illustrative

Layer 4: Product Denominator & Footprint

Layer 4: Product Denominator & Footprint: Order & style carbon ledger, Accepted good units (A-grade), Rework & scrap carbon penalty log · illustrative

The method behind it: GFT Factory Scope 1 and 2 Allocation and Denominator Protocol.

Method and source · Exhibit 34

Illustrative system architecture derived from UK DESNZ conversion structures (S20), GHG Protocol Scope 3 allocation hierarchy (S23), ISO 14040 causality principles (S24) and US EPA boundary metering rules (S0704).

Unit: four-layer allocation architecture. Status: illustrative. Sources: S20, S23, S24, S0704. Illustrative figures are teaching examples, not measured factory results.

7.14 · the bodyExhibit 34 above; its figures are illustrative where marked.

A garment factory rarely makes a single style all year.[S23] Lines 1 and 2 may sew jersey T-shirts while Lines 3 and 4 sew heavy woven workwear trousers requiring bar-tacking and steam pressing.[S23][S31] Even when each sewing line has an electrical sub-meter, all lines share the cutting room, compressed-air header, boiler house, warehouse, quality lab, offices and lighting.[S20][S23] To report the Scope 1 and 2 footprint of each style, the factory partitions shared utilities using a defensible rule.[S23][S24]

¶ 01 · 4 sources

Lines 1 and 2 may sew jersey T-shirts while Lines 3 and 4 sew…S23, S31

Related · Exhibit 62 · chapter 13

S23S31S20S24

7.15 ISO 14044 and the GHG Protocol establish a strict allocation hierarchy

7.15

ISO 14044 and the GHG Protocol Product and Scope 3 standards set a three-step hierarchy for multi-product sites.[S01][S23][S25] First, avoid allocation through subdivision: sub-metered line electricity or dedicated boiler steam used by one style goes directly to that style.[S23][S25] Second, where shared utilities cannot be subdivided, allocate by an underlying physical relationship that reflects how inputs change with product function.[S23][S24][S25] Third, use economic allocation only when physical causality cannot be established, disclosing sensitivity tests.[S23][S25]

¶ 02 · 4 sources

…GHG Protocol Product and Scope 3 standards set a three-step hierarchy for multi-product sitesS01, S23, S25

S01S23S25S24

7.16 Testing standard allowed minutes, machine hours, mass and unit counts

7.16

Four physical drivers are candidates for shared garment-factory utilities:[S20][S23][S24] 1. Simple unit count: Splitting factory emissions equally per piece violates causality whenever styles differ in sewing and pressing work content.[S23][S24] 2. Garment mass: Allocating by mass suits spreading, cutting, washing and drying, where energy scales with fabric weight, but distorts sewing power when a light, complex garment requires more stitching than a heavy, simple item.[S23][S26][S31] 3. Machine operating hours: Allocating compressed air, HVAC and lighting by active machine-hours logged per line and order.[S20][S23] 4. Standard Allowed Minutes (SAM) produced: Multiplying units processed by time-studied style SAM yields earned standard minutes. Because machine run-time, workstation occupancy, lighting, needle-cooling air and pressing dwell time scale with work content in standard minutes, SAM is the strongest causal driver for shared CMT assembly and site-service power.[S20][S23][S24]

¶ 03 · 5 sources

1S20, S23, S24

S20S23S24S26S31

GFT implements the hybrid two-stage allocation architecture in Exhibit 34: sub-metered power and steam go to their measured cost centres, while shared cutting energy is allocated by cut fabric mass, shared pressing steam and power by pressing SAM, and shared site services plus refrigerants by total earned SAM, before dividing by accepted A-grade units.[S20][S23][S24][S0704]

As shown in Exhibit 34, every kilowatt-hour and litre of fuel passes through a cost-centre sub-meter and a causal driver before reaching a garment order.[S20][S23][S0704] Because Exhibit 34 is an illustrative system design, each factory must validate the physical correlation between SAM, mass and sub-metered energy during commissioning.[S23][S25]

To make the findings of this worked example comparable across allocation and denominator choices, Exhibit 35 plots the shift from naive unit averaging to causal sub-metered allocation for both styles, alongside the shift from started units to accepted good garments.[S23][S24]

¶ 06 · 2 sourcesExhibit 35

S23S24

As Exhibit 35 illustrates, replacing a site-wide unit average with feeder sub-meters and SAM-weighted thermal and electrical pools separates the 0.223 kg CO2e basic T-shirt from the 0.820 kg CO2e work shirt, while moving from started units to accepted good units exposes the 0.123 kg CO2e per garment quality penalty on Line 2.[S23][S24] Because Exhibit 35 displays an illustrative calculation, it demonstrates the accounting mechanism rather than an empirical Cameroonian benchmark.[S20][S23]

¶ 07 · 3 sources

…and electrical pools separates the 0.223 kg CO2e basic T-shirt from the 0.820 kg…S23, S24

Exhibit 35

S23S24S20

7.172 min · 2 sub-steps · read with a related exhibit

Indirect operations complete the factory inventory

Beyond purchased materials (Scope 3 Category 1), upstream fuel and power losses (Category 3) and freight (Categories 4 and 9), a garment factory generates indirect emissions across additional Scope 3 categories requiring a relevance screen under the GHG Protocol Scope 3 Standard.[S02][S23] The 15 categories require an organisation to screen all activities first and focus primary data collection where emissions, reduction potential and stakeholder relevance are highest.[S02][S23]

¶ 01 · 2 sources

Beyond purchased materials (Scope 3 Category 1)S02, S23

Related · Exhibit 64 · chapter 14

S02S23

7.18 Capital goods, operational waste, employee commuting and business travel require targeted screening

7.18

Four operational Scope 3 categories require explicit screening rules:[S02][S23]

¶ 02 · 2 sources

Four operational Scope 3 categories require explicit screening rules:S02, S23

S02S23

  • Category 2 (Capital goods): Embodied emissions of buildings, solar racks, sewing machines, cutters and boilers enter Corporate Scope 3 Category 2 in the acquisition year, while product footprints under ISO 14067 and European apparel Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCR) follow applicable product category rules with disclosure.[S01][S05][S06][S23]
  • Category 5 (Waste generated in operations): Segregated masses of offcuts, cones, packaging scrap and wastewater are logged by disposal route and multiplied by UK DESNZ route-specific factors.[S02][S20][S23]
  • Category 6 (Business travel) and Category 7 (Employee commuting): Garment plants are labour-intensive; Cameroon announcements for the planned Camtext SA project reference roughly 12,000 jobs at Dibamba and 3,000 at Garoua.[R10] Commuting across 40-hour to 48-hour weeks (Category 7) and auditor or engineer travel (Category 6) enter Corporate Scope 3, excluding owned shuttle buses in Scope 1.[R16][S02][S04][S23]
  • Category 8 (Upstream leased assets): Utilities of leased spaces not consolidated in Scopes 1 and 2 sit in Category 8.[S02][S23]

7.19 Secondary proxies are acceptable for minor categories when documented

7.19

The GHG Protocol Scope 3 Calculation Guidance authorises secondary proxies (commuting survey bands, flight calculators and ecoinvent processes) for minor categories representing a small share of total emissions.[S16][S23] In product footprints, the GHG Protocol Product Standard separates attributable life cycle processes from non-attributable overhead so corporate Scope 3 completeness is preserved while product records exchanged under WBCSD PACT Version 3 focus on material, energy, waste and transport flows.[S01][S10][S23]

¶ 03 · 4 sources

…non-attributable overhead so corporate Scope 3 completeness is preserved while product records exchanged under…S01, S10, S23

S16S23S01S10

By embedding fuel flow meters, refrigerant mass balances, two-tier sub-meters, standard allowed minutes and first-pass yields into one daily record, the garment factory turns Scope 1 and 2 accounting into a live control system.[S04][S20][S23] Once the factory gates are measured and allocated cleanly to every accepted garment, the next task is to follow those garments across multimodal freight corridors without shrinking the fuel boundary.[S01][S18]

¶ 04 · 5 sources

the garment factory turns Scope 1 and 2 accounting into a live control systemS04, S20, S23

S04S20S23S01S18

Check the record

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Every knot is a source this chapter cites; select one to read its record, or filter the register by grade. Publication dates and inherited-source limits stay explicit. Read the paper's full evidence summary.

31 sources · 357 citation marks on this pageMost cited: S23, 74 times

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R03 · Grade C · inherited record

SODECOTON

Inherited evidence R03

Company profile: more than 220,000 cotton producers supported in northern Cameroon; nine ginning plants; two oil mills.

Publication date unrecorded. Inherited source-text record. The original publication has not been independently reopened for this web edition.

Chapter source notes

S04 GHG Protocol. 2004.

S20 UK Department for Energy Security and Net Zero. 2026-06-11.

S08 Science Based Targets initiative and World Resources Institute. 2019.

S31 Forfora et al., Sustainability. 2026-04-20.

S23 GHG Protocol and Carbon Trust. 2013.

S0704 United States Environmental Protection Agency. 2023-12.

R06 Cameroon Trade Hub. Publication date unrecorded; inherited source-text check.

S01 GHG Protocol. 2011.

S03 GHG Protocol. 2015.

S24 International Organization for Standardization. 2006-07.

S02 GHG Protocol. 2011.

S0702 United States Environmental Protection Agency. 2023-12.

S0703 United States Environmental Protection Agency. 2026-04-02.

S0701 United States Environmental Protection Agency. 2023-12.

S14 International Energy Agency. 2026-09-25.

S11 Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. 2021-08-06.

R03 SODECOTON. Publication date unrecorded; inherited source-text check.

R10 Ecofin Agency. Publication date unrecorded; inherited source-text check.

S09 International Energy Agency. 2026.

S28 World Bank. 2025-01-16.

S15 International Renewable Energy Agency. 2026-07-02.

S05 International Organization for Standardization. 2018-08.

S10 World Business Council for Sustainable Development. 2025-04-30.

R29 MDPI; industry inspection literature. Publication date unrecorded; inherited source-text check.

S25 International Organization for Standardization. 2006-07.

S26 Watson and Wiedemann, Sustainability. 2019-07-15.

R12 Business in Cameroon. Publication date unrecorded; inherited source-text check.

S06 European Commission. 2025-06-25.

R16 WageIndicator. Publication date unrecorded; inherited source-text check.

S16 ecoinvent. 2025-11-05.

S18 Smart Freight Centre. 2024.

Keep the thread · chapter 07 of 14

Chapter 08 picks up the thread.

Move the shuttle along the rack to preview any chapter: its sections, exhibits and reading time. Draft web edition. This research is not investment, legal or tax advice; illustrative models are not measured factory results.

The paper's rack · 14 boltsBolt length: reading time

08Part II: Follow carbon through the garment

Logistics requires transport work and fuel life cycles, not distance alone

A route footprint depends on mass, loading, mode, fuel, empty running and upstream energy, not only kilometres.

  • 8.1Transport work begins with tonne-kilometres
  • 8.4Well-to-wake prevents the fuel boundary from shrinking
  • 8.7Mode and geography determine the factor
  • 8.10Inbound and outbound legs need separate allocation
Reading time
33 min
Exhibits
5
Sections
6
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